Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar - Ref. 43032 - Full set

The Watch

Each era of watchmaking has its flagships. For some eras, it's integrated bracelet watches others, it's the earliest sports watch iterations, and for those deep into the neo-vintage rabbit hole, the Vacheron Constantin 43032 is the thinking man's choice. Born during a time when Vacheron Constantin and like-minded legacy manufacturers went all in on spotlighting traditional, timeless, true watchmaking, the 43032 offers value that far exceeds its price tag, with a level of craft, finish, and execution rarely seen.

Measuring 36mm and rendered in platinum, the exterior of this 43032 is beautifully uncomplicated. The case houses a stepped, rounded bezel, while the lugs are svelte, refined, and straight. The crown is compact, in keeping with the overall proportions of the watch, while the perpetual calendar is engaged through four pushers around the case body that sit perfectly flush. All of this comes in at a height of just 8mm; beauty and savoir-faire collide.

Some would argue that the 43032 has no dial to speak of, and while not entirely false, despite its aggressive skeletonisation, the piece retains hold of the essentials. The watch bears four white sub-dials with the twelve o'clock register reading off the month, the three reading the date, the six housing the moonphase and brand signature, and the nine tracking the day. Said moonphase is worthy of an article itself, as it's crafted from a slice of lapis lazuli stone, introducing an entirely different character and appeal to the complication. The six o'clock register and the manufacturer signature sit slightly more centrally when compared to other examples of this reference, indicating this is a later dial model, in keeping with the 1998 production date of this example. Aggressive faceted dauphine hands glide over the pure mechanics of the rest of the dial, which reveals a view dominated by levers, wheels, and jewels, all beautifully and classically finished. Referring to finishing as a work of art is just as overused as calling a watch iconic, but with the 43032 we're certainly in that realm.

The Movement 

The calibre powering this Vacheron is the 1120QP, a coveted calibre that starts life as the JLC 820 ébauche. But this is where the movement comes into its own, as the caseback reveals extensive skeletonisation through the 21ct rotor, wheels, and bridges, alongside extraordinary engraving on every possible section. For many, this is the pièce de résistance of the 43032, representing a true showcase of Vacheron's proficiency.

How It Wears

How this Vacheron 43032 wears might just be tied with the movement finishing in terms of stand-out features, as the fit on the wrist is world-class. The measurements on paper say it all: 36mm by 8mm thick, and with longer lugs than comparable complicated models from fellow Holy Trinity members, even larger wrists will feel at home. There is a beautiful dichotomy between aggressive style from the skeletonisation, engraving, and dauphine hands, with the utter elegance of its fit, case execution and complication.

Condition 

Dating from 1998, this 43032 continues to stand out as it's offered as a complete set, a rare sight indeed, including its outer box, wooden box, manuals, papers, service booklet, an envelope with serial numbers, push pin, cloth, and original platinum buckle. Not only does this 43032 come in a complete set, but the watch is also in excellent condition, with no signs of polish and barely any signs of wear. The piece is fitted to a Mr Watchley Anthracite Grained strap.

Origin

At the peak of traditional watchmaking is where you'll find the likes of Vacheron Constantin playing ball. This ground is hallowed and well-trodden by Vacheron, occupying this top spot since they were born in 1755. While they have experienced plenty of hardship, their commitment to craft and watchmaking artistry prevails. The latter stages of the 20th century were turmoil times for watchmakers as the advent of quartz watches nearly wiped out the industry entirely. With seemingly everyone's focus on this new technology, it was starting to look like mechanical watchmaking was staggering to its grave. This was until owning watches to form collections began to take shape, as legacy manufacturers realised rather than changing and joining in with this new technology, what clients looked to them for was authentic expressions of their proficiency.

The work of Vacheron during the 1980s and 1990s epitomises this, with mechanical masterpieces that crucially abide by watchmaking tradition becoming a major aspect of their production with jump hours, finely finished chronographs, and perpetual calendars all maintaining their place within the Vacheron Constantin collection. The latter of those complications, the perpetual calendar, often holds the most regard amongst collectors, and in 1983 Vacheron released the 43031. At 36mm and only produced in yellow gold and platinum, the 43031 is a quintessential slice of neo-vintage watchmaking. It's traditionally styled yet made with modern technology, harnessing the legendary JLC-based 1120 QP calibre. One year later, in '84, they introduced the 43032, a watch that is the same as the 43031, except it is fully skeletonised and introduces remarkable artistry through the hand-engraved movement and rotor. Lasting until the late 1990s, it is believed that 10-15 examples of the 43032 were produced each year.

With the rising interest in watches from this era, many consider the 43031 and the 43032 to be true cornerstones of this renaissance era of watchmaking.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium