Urban Jürgensen Ref. 8 - No Date - Yellow Gold - Anno 1999


The watch

Each component of the Urban Jürgensen Ref. 8 is an individual feat of exemplified skill and when all these components are combined, as they are on this Reference 8, they create an object that impresses from every angle and exceeds expectations. 

This specific Ref. 8 was manufactered in 1999 and is fashioned from yellow gold, its case measures 37mm in diameter, has a slim stepped bezel and a recessed crown. Combining these features together makes an already very classical, traditional and elegant timepiece. Delve a little further, and whilst the classic elegance remains, the Urban Jürgensen individuality, craft, and dedication to traditional technique really starts to shine through.

Each of the teardrop lugs that embellish the case are individually created, heat-treated, hand-polished and then fused onto the case using a technique that has been in use since the mid-twentieth century. This faithfulness to traditional watchmaking techniques stems in part from the influence of Derek Pratt, who resisted modern developments within watchmaking.

Turning to the dial and the first aspect that catches the eye are the very unique observatoire Urban Jürgensen hands. These hands are entirely hand-crafted in Switzerland through a process that involves fifty separate steps and takes one full day's work to complete just one set of hour, minute and seconds hands. A clear demonstration of the brand's commitment to creating truly unique timepieces. The hands are made from steel which is thermally blued to Urban Jürgensen's specific blue tone. The magnificent gold eye of the hour hand adds an unusual and intriguing dimension to the piece as it glides over the dial, firstly through the two blue signatures located at 12 o'clock and then as it strikes six, we see perfect alignment with the centre of the seconds sub-dial. The minute hand also has its own touch of individuality as its tip has been slightly curved.

It is also interesting to note that 'Copenhagen' is featured on the dial, something which is unique to early pieces and cannot be found on more recent models. Apart from this, the timepiece does not feature a date aperture at 6 o’clock. Making the already in small quantity produced timepiece even more rare and interesting. 

Texture is brought to the silver dial through varying forms of hand-finished, engine-turned guilloché which is seen in the centre of the seconds sub-dial and across the main part of the dial. The brushed hour chapter ring is completed with blue inked Roman numerals and is slightly separated from the outer ring of blue minute markers, the ring of markers on the seconds the sub-dial following the exact same pattern.

Teardrop lugs, observatoire hands and delicate guilloché dials marked the aesthetic development of Urban Jürgensen under Baumberger/Pratt and set the subsequent aesthetic standard for the brand.


The watch is powered by the automatic Caliber 1160, an ultra-thin movement that is produced by Frédéric Piguet. It contains 30 jewels, has a power reserve of 100 hours and a frequency of 21,600 vph. While the movement may not be in-house in construction, it has been adorned with Urban Jürgensen's attentive in-house curation. Through the sapphire glass exhibition caseback, this considered curation is displayed. Geneva stripes and anglage can be seen on the bridges, while the 21K yellow gold rotor is almost completely covered in very delicate guilloché and is neatly completed with the UJS crest.

How it wears

A watch that wears as if it were always just 'meant to be'. With its slender dimensions, slim stepped bezel and decidedly elegant teardrop lugs, the watch blends flawlessly with the wrist and is incredibly comfortable to wear. Its classical form, as well as classical colour palette, make it a distinctly versatile dress watch. 

The set & condition

This refined timepiece is in incredible well preserved condition, which hails from one of the most noteworthy moments within the Urban Jürgensen archive. The timepiece comes with its original strap and a 18K gold Urban Jürgensen pin buckle. The watch's original certificate and purchase receipt are also included. 


2023 will mark the 250th anniversary of Danish watchmaker, Urban Jürgensen. For any brand to enjoy this kind of longevity, it requires a touch of something special and that is a touch that Urban Jürgensen most certainly has. Perhaps shown in a less ostentatious way than some of its contemporaries, yet undoubtedly present. Over the course of its nearly 250-year history there have of course been louder and quieter moments, and whilst it may have been a quieter moment as of late, this upcoming anniversary is sure to create considerable buzz around Urban Jürgensen. 

In November 2021 the renowned Finnish independent watchmaker, Kari Voutilainen, became the new CEO of the historic Danish brand. The first, and highly anticipated, creations realised under his new direction will be released as part of the anniversary year in 2023. This new management is a particularly exciting development as Mr Voutilainen was notably present during the defining era of Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt at Urban Jürgensen. The era to which this finely crafted Reference 8 belongs.

Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt initially crossed paths thanks to their mutual admiration and respect for tradition within watchmaking. Mr Baumberger was an antiques dealer and Mr Pratt, a talented watchmaker who worked to continue the great work of Breguet, Harrison and Tompion. Considered one of the most important twentieth-century watchmakers, he had the rare and necessary skill to be able to restore Mr Baumberger's antique clocks. When Mr Baumberger became the proprietor of Urban Jürgensen in 1985, he knew exactly who to involve in order to restore and rebuild the brand that had been renowned in the early nineteenth century for its complex watchmaking. 

This era of Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt is known for its dynamic creativity in every aspect of horology, and the subsequent resurgence of Urban Jürgensen.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium

No stock kept on site

Reference 8
Movement Automatic
Calibre 1160
Dial Silver Guilloché & Blue numerals
Size (Case) 37 mm
Material (Case) Yellow Gold
Bracelet Mr Watchley Saffiano Blue
Glass Sapphire
Condition Very good
Year Manufactured: 1999, Sold: 2001
Papers Yes ( Original Certificate & purchase papers)
Box Mr Watchley Pouch 
Warranty 2 years


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