Urban Jürgensen Ref. 5 - Yellow Gold

Origin

Widely acknowledged as the company to bring watchmaking to Denmark, Urban Jürgensen is a family-established manufacturer launched in 1773 by Jürgen Jürgensen. The Jürgensen family had a prolific 18th and 19th century, to say the least, working closely with the likes of Jacques-Frédéric Houriet, Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. These close working relationships set the standards for fine watchmaking, standards which are still upheld and referenced today. Urban Jürgensen, the first son of Jürgen, continued building the family's brand, contributing to a 139-year run of Jürgensen family ownership lasting until 1912. A turmoil 20th century then followed, with numerous new owners. However, in 1985, Peter Baumberger and master watchmaker English Derek Pratt joined forces to return Urban Jürgensen to its traditional and haute sensibilities. Models were crafted that focused on handmade production and unwavering adherence to tenets outlined by its founding fathers. Despite only officially acquiring the brand in 1985, the Reference 1 Calendar Chronograph debuted under Baumberger in 1982, followed by the Reference 2 Perpetual Calendar in 1990 and a time-only model, the Reference 5, during the 1990s. After thorough research, Mr Watchley has uncovered that the Reference 5 was officially offered in yellow gold, platinum, and red gold, with a bracelet option also available for the platinum model. Exacting details on precise production numbers are scarce, though, due to the extensive handmade nature of the watches, it is believed only hundreds of the Reference 5 came to fruition.

Eventually, in 2014 Danish private investors took over the company following the passing of Baumberger in 2010. In 2021, renowned Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen led investors to acquire Urban Jürgensen and establish himself as the new CEO. The direction the brand will go now under Voutilainen's control is yet to be seen. Nevertheless, he has publicly stated that he wishes to maintain the aesthetic and classical spirit of the Maison that was expertly portrayed by Baumberger and Pratt during the late 20th century, casting more attention and respect towards those celebrated pieces.

The Watch

Arguably one of the most classic Urban Jürgensen references to have been produced, the Reference 5 is a rare and influential piece from one of the trailblazers of modern independent watchmaking. Handcrafted from 18-carat yellow gold, the Urban Jurgensen Reference 5 is unquestionably a seldom-seen early reference. Realised in a classical 35mm size, it is the simplest of the Baumberger & Pratt era, with a broad sense of traditionality and elegant allure. Despite its unassuming proportions and somewhat minimal case, the exterior of the Reference 5 is not without distinction. A generously stepped bezel and petite teardrop lugs contribute directly to the svelte profile and overall charm of this piece. This is one of the earliest executions of these key design cues, which still can be found in recent Urban Jürgensen creations. The art of nuanced refinement exudes from all facets of this neo-vintage Reference 5, and while the watch delivers a familiar quintessential dress watch impression, the specificity here lies within its uncompromising craftsmanship and individuality. The dial is an extension of the brand's bespoke presence, starting as a solid piece of silver before being meticulously worked on by hand. The dial involved close to 700 processes in its production with century-old equipment such as a rose engine lathe to create the guilloché wave diamond pattern occupying the centre of the dial. Surrounding this guilloché are two brushed chapter rings, the most notable being the housing for the black-printed Roman numerals, while the outer ring is for rounded plots. Timekeeping for the Reference 5 is reserved exclusively for minutes and hours, with a straightforward minute hand and an 'observatoire' hour finished in yellow gold. This blend is yet another trait of  Urban Jürgensen pieces and can also be found throughout the fellow independent brand, and the new CEO, Kari Voutilainen of Voutilainen watches, as the famed watchmaker previously worked for the brand.  

Simply signed 'Urban Jürgensen' and 'Copenhagen', this Reference 5 is the most undiluted realisation of the watchmaker's encapsulation of traditional watchmaking with ubiquitous noteworthy executions.

The Movement

It may be a shock to learn that the calibre powering this slender dress watch is, in fact, automatic: the Frédéric Piguet base, FP 71. Featuring 35 jewels and having been adjusted in five positions, this lavishly decorated movement extends the hand-finished work found throughout this piece, regardless of its solid caseback. Of significant note is the 21k gold guilloche rotor signed with the 'UJS' crest and complete with Geneva striped bridges. Once more, the commitment to traditionally realised decoration harkens back to the origins of 18th-century Urban Jürgensen.

How It Wears

With its reserved breadth, impossibly thin profile, and purposely squat length, the Urban Jurgensen Reference 5 is a highly classical wearer. From its stepped bezel design to its teardrop lugs and wide open dial aperture, each facet of its configuration seemingly dials in on comfort. The Reference 5 doesn't care for making a statement, nor is it trying to be the life and soul of the conversation, its delicate and slight expression favours being discreet and humble. Furthermore, its automatic calibre is without compromise, delivering heightened functionality while ensuring a svelte wrist presence. Quite simply, this is first-class Danish watchmaking sensibility.  

Condition

This Urban Jürgensen Reference 5 in 18k Yellow Gold is offered without box or papers. The watch is, however, complete with the original Urban Jürgensen brown alligator strap in superb condition, along with its matching gold pin buckle. The watch is presented fitted to a custom made Mr Watchley Brown Madras leather strap.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium

No stock kept on site