Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H40 - Rose gold - Ivory
The Watch
The early years of Roger Dubuis were defined by a relentless pursuit of traditional Genevan watchmaking, paired with a subtle yet confident sense of individuality. Nowhere is this more apparent than within the Hommage collection, a series conceived as a respectful nod to the great watchmakers of the past, whilst establishing a distinct identity of its own. This Hommage Chronograph H40 in rose gold exemplifies that philosophy in its purest form, combining classical design language with elevated finishing and rarity.
Measuring 40mm in diameter, the H40 represents the largest and most contemporary case size of the early Hommage series, offering both presence and wearability. Crafted in 18-carat rose gold, the case is defined by its stepped, concave bezel and elegantly sculpted lugs, all finished to a high polish. The chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock feature a flared, turbine-like design, a subtle homage to vintage chronographs such as the Patek Philippe ref. 1463, reinforcing Roger Dubuis’ deep-rooted connection to traditional Swiss watchmaking.
The dial is where this piece truly distinguishes itself. Presented in a crisp lacquered ivory tone, it offers a striking contrast against the warmth of the rose gold case. Applied Breguet numerals in matching rose gold provide both depth and elegance, their curved form evoking the most desirable vintage chronographs of the mid-20th century. Each faceted five-minute index and finely executed minute markers are polished to a high degree, capturing light in a manner that enhances legibility whilst elevating the overall refinement of the dial.
Configured as a two-register chronograph, the layout remains balanced and highly legible. The central feuille hour and minute hands, along with the subsidiary seconds hand, are executed in rose gold, complementing the case and numerals. In contrast, the central chronograph seconds hand and corresponding minute counter are rendered in thermally blued steel, introducing a subtle yet effective visual distinction that further enhances the watch’s vintage-inspired aesthetic.
As with many early Hommage models, production was exceptionally limited. It is widely understood that each configuration was produced in series of 28 pieces, a decision influenced by the auspicious nature of the number eight in certain cultures. This inherent rarity, combined with the timeless design and exceptional execution, places the H40 amongst the most desirable early creations from Roger Dubuis.
The Movement
Powering the Hommage Chronograph H40 is the calibre RD56, based on the legendary Lemania 2310—a movement widely regarded as one of the finest manual-wind chronograph calibres ever produced, and notably used by Patek Philippe in some of its most celebrated references.
In true Roger Dubuis fashion, the movement is extensively reworked and finished to meet the exacting standards of the Geneva Seal, a hallmark of exceptional craftsmanship and finishing. At the time, this level of certification was almost exclusively associated with Patek Philippe, underlining Dubuis’ ambition to position his brand amongst the very finest in Swiss watchmaking.
Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement showcases a host of traditional high-end features, including a swan-neck regulator, a monometallic balance adjusted to five positions, and a self-compensating Breguet hairspring. The chronograph architecture is equally impressive, with its refined construction and meticulous finishing evident throughout.
Further elevating its technical credentials, the movement bears the “Bulletin d’Observatoire” designation, indicating that it was tested for accuracy at the Besançon Observatory—standards considered even more stringent than those set by COSC.
How It Wears
Despite its classical inspiration, the Hommage H40 wears with a contemporary presence thanks to its 40mm case diameter. The proportions are well judged, allowing it to sit comfortably across a range of wrist sizes while maintaining the elegance expected of a traditional chronograph.
On the wrist, the interplay between the lacquered ivory dial and rose gold case creates a warm, sophisticated aesthetic, while the applied numerals and polished markers catch the light with every movement. The blued chronograph hands introduce a subtle contrast, ensuring both functionality and visual intrigue.
It is a watch that effortlessly bridges the gap between vintage inspiration and modern wearability—equally suited to formal settings or more relaxed occasions. Above all, it carries a quiet confidence, with its rarity and historical significance speaking louder than any overt display.
Condition & Set
This Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph H40 in rose gold is presented in excellent overall condition and is fitted with the sought-after original rose gold folding buckle featuring the distinctive RD design.
Origin
The story of Roger Dubuis begins in the late 1950s at Longines, where he spent close to a decade specialising in the repair of chronographs within the after-sales department. He would later join Patek Philippe, working within the complications division for over twenty years, contributing to some of the manufacture’s most celebrated references, including perpetual calendars and minute repeaters.
Following his departure in the 1980s, Dubuis established his own workshop dedicated to the restoration of vintage timepieces, serving private clients, dealers, and auction houses throughout Geneva. His passion for traditional watchmaking remained unwavering, ultimately leading to the founding of his eponymous brand in 1995 alongside businessman Carlos Dias.
The earliest Roger Dubuis watches quickly gained recognition among collectors for their ability to channel the essence of classical Genevan horology, whilst introducing a distinctive stylistic identity. From the outset, the brand sought to rival the very best, adopting the Geneva Seal across its production and focusing on both technical excellence and refined design.
Though Roger Dubuis himself would leave the brand in 2003, the watches produced during its first years remain the most revered. Defined by their rarity, craftsmanship, and historical significance, early Hommage models such as the H40 stand today as enduring examples of independent watchmaking at its finest.
If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium
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| Reference | H40 56 5.4 |
|---|---|
| Movement | Manual |
| Caliber | Calibre RD56 |
| Dial | Lacquered ivory |
| Size (Case) | 40 |
| Material (Case) | Rose gold |
| Bracelet | Mr Watchley strap |
| Buckle | Original RD folding buckle |
| Condition | Very good |
| Year | 1990's |
| Papers | - |
| Box | - |
| Warranty | 2 years |