Patek Philippe Rose gold Calatrava Ref. 96SC - Original Patek Philippe Brick bracelet
The Watch
The Patek Philippe Reference 96 stands as the foundation of Patek Philippe’s dress watch lineage. Introduced in 1932, it established a design language defined by balance, restraint, and enduring elegance — principles that continue to shape classical watchmaking today. This particular reference 96 SC in rose gold distinguishes itself through two exceptionally rare and desirable elements: an uncommon dial configuration and the presence of its original Patek Philippe rose gold bracelet.
The dial is the immediate focal point. Applied rose gold Roman numerals mark the cardinal hours at 12, 3, 6, and 9, while the remaining hours are indicated by discreet rose gold dot indices. This combination is rarely encountered on the reference 96 and reflects a non-standard execution, likely produced in limited numbers. The layout is exceptionally well balanced, with generous spacing between numerals and dots, allowing the dial to breathe while maintaining perfect legibility. Gold baton hands preserve the watch’s understated character, while the blued central seconds hand introduces a subtle contrast, adding animation without disrupting the dial’s purity.
The dial shows honest and attractive ageing, evenly distributed and consistent with careful long-term ownership. Importantly, its overall integrity remains excellent: the applied numerals and dots are crisp, the printing remains clear, and the surface retains a pleasing softness rather than degradation. This kind of balanced patina enhances the character of an early Calatrava rather than detracting from it.
Equally significant is the original Patek Philippe rose gold brick bracelet. Period-correct and exceptionally rare, it was manufactured by Gay Frères, the most revered bracelet maker of the era and long-standing partner to Patek Philippe. The bracelet is as rare as the watch itself and is seldom encountered in such cohesive condition. It is well articulated, sits flush against the case, and retains a tight, fluid feel, underscoring its originality. Visually and functionally, it transforms the watch, creating a fully integrated Patek Philippe timepiece rather than a watch head paired later with a strap. The continuity between case, dial, and bracelet elevates this example into a far rarer category of early Calatravas.
The rose gold case has been polished in the past, a fact reflected in the assessment of condition. Nevertheless, it retains its elegant proportions, symmetrical profile, and unmistakable Calatrava silhouette. The case measures 31 mm in diameter, the classic size that defines the reference 96 and contributes to its timeless elegance.
The Movement
Powering this reference 96 is the calibre 12‴120 SC, a manually wound movement with central seconds. The “SC” designation stands for Seconde Centrale, denoting the sweep seconds complication that distinguishes this execution from earlier small-seconds variants.
The calibre 12‴120 SC represents Patek Philippe at its most confident: compact, mechanically robust, and beautifully finished. Geneva striping, clean anglage, polished screw heads, and a harmonious layout reflect the manufacture’s philosophy of quiet excellence — precision and longevity executed without excess. The Extract from the Archives confirms the originality of the movement.
How It Wears
On the wrist, the reference 96 remains effortlessly refined. Its 31 mm diameter, combined with the warmth of rose gold, results in an intimate, elegant presence that sits comfortably. Fitted to the original Patek Philippe Gay Frères brick bracelet, the watch gains additional substance and fluidity, offering a distinctly period-correct wearing experience that is rarely encountered today. The bracelet changes not only the feel, but the entire character of the watch.
The bracelet clasp features three fitting positions, allowing for precise adjustment and a comfortable fit on wrists measuring 17,5 cm and up to 19 cm in circumference. This thoughtful construction further reinforces the bracelet’s practicality and wearability, even by contemporary standards.
Condition & Set
This example is offered in honest and highly appealing condition. The dial exhibits even, attractive ageing while remaining clear, balanced, and well preserved. The case has been polished previously but maintains strong overall proportions and visual symmetry.
The watch is accompanied by its original Patek Philippe box and an Extract from the Archives, which confirms the movement. The watch was manufactured in 1938 and was originally sold on a leather strap in 1939. The original Patek Philippe rose gold brick bracelet was added a few years later, reflecting a period-correct upgrade often commissioned by discerning owners. Offered by the original owner, the set benefits from exceptional continuity and provenance.
Origin
Reference 96 occupies a singular position in Patek Philippe’s history as the manufacture’s first wristwatch produced with a reference number. Conceived during the economic and cultural shifts of the early 1930s, it embodied a new vision of luxury — one rooted in discretion, precision, and timeless design rather than ornamentation. Later known as the Calatrava, it became the blueprint for the modern dress watch.
While the reference was produced in various metals and dial executions, examples in rose gold featuring uncommon dial layouts were made in far smaller numbers. Applied Roman numerals combined with dot indices are not standard catalogue offerings, but rather the result of specific client requests, making surviving examples particularly scarce today.
The presence of an original Patek Philippe rose gold bracelet made by Gay Frères further distinguishes this watch. During the period, bracelets were ordered far less frequently than leather straps, and even fewer have survived intact. Manufactured to the same uncompromising standards as the watch itself, these bracelets were labour-intensive and produced in limited quantities, making complete early Calatrava sets of this nature exceptionally rare.
Examples of the reference 96 combining a non-standard dial configuration with an original Patek Philippe gold bracelet are encountered only exceptionally rarely, making this a particularly compelling offering within the Calatrava lineage.
If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium.
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| Reference | 96SC |
|---|---|
| Movement | Manual Wound |
| Caliber |
Calibre 12-120SC
|
| Dial | Silver dial - Applied RG Roman numerals |
| Size (Case) | 31 mm |
| Material (Case) | Rose gold |
| Bracelet | Original Patek (Gay Frères) brick Bracelet |
| Buckle | Rose gold |
| Condition | Good |
| Year | 1938 - Sold in 1939 |
| Papers | Extract from archive |
| Box | Yes - Original |
| Warranty | 2 years |