Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196G - Full set - Folding buckle

The Watch

A revolutionary approach may capture attention, but evolution can leave a permanent mark on the world, and that's where you'll typically find the most revered of icons. The list of watches where this concept applies is frequently, and often questionably, extended, but one piece that's place is not up for debate is the Calatrava. Although the model's lineage dates back to the 1930s, its the reference 5196 – a contemporary take on the legendary 96 – which is the Calatrava of the past two decades. Standing as the definition of restrained, this 37mm wide 5196 is realised in 18k white gold and right from the word 'go', its true elegance is unmatched. The flat bezel, effortless tapered lug form, satin case body and completely polished top side are all wrapped up and packaged in just 8mm of thinness. Every element of a haute dress watch must be painstakingly immaculate, and the case of the 5196 sets the bar and standard remarkably high.

The dial is also no slouch; straightforward, refined, timeless. A silver-opaline base adorned with the lightest of vertical brushing makes way for a configuration that, since 1932, has been the template for dress watches the industry over. Unbroken dart-style applied hour markers provide a three-dimensionality, with a gracefully double pairing at twelve and a squared-off marker at six to not disrupt the subsidiary seconds register. Surrounding these immensely characterful markers is an element so synonymous with Patek, a tiny polished dot track for the minutes. While other references before and after favour more widespread markings, the dot realisation is utterly whimsical and understated. And it's the same story when it comes to time telling, with immense dauphine hands tracking the hours and minutes while a feuille hand sits within the borderless seconds register. Sharp furniture meticulously finished and formed, along with a simple 'Patek Philippe Geneve' signature is all this 5196 dial needs to make a quiet statement. A statement which in 1932, now, and eternally remains impactful and significant.

The Calatrava: the gold standard for the dress watch and the king of doing more by doing less.

The Movement

Powering the Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 is the manufacture calibre 215 PS. Based upon the 215 (the PS signifies it has a subsidiary seconds), this movement has been in production since the 1970s and, as such, carries hallmarks of a traditional calibre both technically and visually. Manually wound with a power reserve of 44 hours, vibrating at 28,800 vph, and with the Patek Philippe Seal, the 215 PS embodies the Calatrava's mastery of simplicity. Thin and austere, the movement is made up of five bridges, each with Geneva striping, generous anglage, exposed jewels, and the proprietary patented Gyromax balance wheel. 

How It Wears

At 37mm, with an 8mm thickness, the 5196 is unsurprisingly seriously comfortable for a wide spectrum of wrist sizes. Its dressy appearance is also refreshingly versatile, capable of adding the pièce de résistance to dinner wear or even juxtaposed excelling on the casual weekend breaks. By not being one to follow trends or have a penchant for garish statement-making, it's one of the most unassuming Patek Philippe models, especially in white.

Condition

Sold in 2015, this Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196G is sold with its original full set. Boxes, warranty papers, booklets, PP folding buckle and original PP strap. Fitted to the a custom Mr Watchley grey Strap. The watch is offered in superb condition.

Origin

It's widely regarded that Patek Philippe has occupied the top of the horological tree for centuries, consistently building some of the greatest watches to be produced. The brand has invariably had an eye for traditional, sophisticated, and mechanically significant creations. A combination of the aforementioned and often low production numbers has resulted in a plethora of highly collectable and exceedingly rare watches that often dominate auction headlines. No matter the watch Patek Philippe turns its hand to, excellence follows.

Yet, their humblest and most understated model series is the root of their success. A creation so iconic, its configuration and name are referenced throughout the industry: the Calatrava. It's hard to believe today, but during the early part of the 20th century, Patek Philippe was struggling. Regardless of its prestigious reputation, they weren't immune to the Great Depression, and the brand needed a saviour both in the shape of new owners and a new model. As such, the 96 was born under the Stern family in 1932. A reference that focused on remaining understated, refined, and, most notably, widely appealing, the straightforward time-only watch became known as the Calatrava and became the blueprint for all dress watches. It's a series that has shifted through the ebbs and flows of each passing decade, evolving in design and modernity. In 2004, the Calatrava returned to 96 form in the shape of the 5196. A flat bezel, svelte profile, subsidiary seconds, manual wind movement, and sharp dial furniture, this reference was undeniably a callback to the one that started it all; even its reference number includes the originals. Available in rose gold (5196R), white gold (5196G), yellow gold (5196J), and platinum (5196P), this generation of Calatrava reigned king in the range until 2022, making it one of the underlining icons of the 21st century Patek Philippe lineup.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium.

No stock is kept on site.

* Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set *