Patek Philippe Calatrava 3923R - 150 years of Harrods - Limited to 35 pieces
Origin
Despite their extensive mechanical excellence, Patek's humblest and most understated model series is the foundation of their continued success. It's a creation so iconic that its configuration and name are referenced throughout the industry, the Calatrava.
It's hard to believe today, but during the early part of the 20th century, Patek Philippe was struggling. Regardless of its prestigious reputation, they weren't immune to the perils of the Great Depression, and they needed a saviour. This came in the form of new owners – the Stern family – and a new model. In an attempt to create a watch that remained understated, refined and crucially widely appealing, in 1932, the 96 was born. This straightforward time-only watch later became known as the Calatrava and would eventually become the blueprint for all dress watches. It's a series that has shifted through the ebbs and flows of each passing decade, evolving in design and modernity.
It was during the 1980s when the name 'Calatrava' was first officially used by Patek Philippe on the ancestors of the 96, and in 1986, the reference 3923 debuted. In classically round 31.5mm cases created in yellow and pink gold (with a few special editions in steel) and with extremely classic baton markers and large dauphine hands, the 3923 is a wonderfully authentic callback to the origins of the Calatrava during an era where other references such as the 3919 had Clous de Paris bezels and pencil hands. The 3923 remained in the collection for 13 years until 1999, when Patek waved goodbye to the reference with a limited run of 35 examples in pink gold to commemorate 150 years of the London-based retailer Harrods.
The Watch
Limited and special edition watches are now a strategic play by many manufacturers, with the approach becoming more of a marketing technique than an authentic marking of an occasion. There are even some houses that have built brands using this approach. However, in the final stages of the 20th century, Patek Philippe released 35 editions of a Calatrava that may represent the zenith of special editions. Released to commemorate 150 years of the London-based retailer Harrods, this 3923R has fine characteristics for a deserved lap of honour of this special neo-vintage reference.
Being released in the final year of the 3923's lifespan, the appeal of this swansong edition is apparent, with its sophisticated 31.5mm case rendered in 18k pink gold. A stepped bezel and curved lugs represent the extent of this amorphous case's defining features; with the Calatrava, it's all about what the watch doesn't have than what it does. The caseback of this 3923R is closed and includes an engraving of the Harrods logo along with ‘1849 - 1999 Celebrating 150 years XX/35'. While the case form of what constitutes a Calatrava is necessary, how the dial is executed, and its lack of complication is where the true charming spirit resides.
A conventional 3923 reference features applique hour markers and fantastic large dauphine hands; this Harrods edition favours a different approach. Still with a vertical grain to its opaline silver dial and a leaf hand for its subsidiary second register as six, the 3923R has applied pink gold Breguet numerals paired with a magnificent set of pink Breguet-style hands. Those familiar with the original 96 and vintage Calatrava examples will know their charm lies in the nuance and variation of the dial executions. Whether it be sector dials, different hands, numerals, or rare finishes - thanks to straightforward cases, these variations allow unique dial features to shine, and that's precisely the case with this piece. The 3923R carries meaningful romantic nods to the 96 while delivering its distinctive personality, creating the pinnacle of dress watch allure.
If you're seeking the definition of timelessness, the 3923R is it.
The Movement
The 215 is the Patek manufacture calibre powering the 3923R, offering 44 hours of autonomy. It vibrates at 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and is stamped with the Patek Philippe Seal. Despite being hidden behind a solid caseback, the movement is complete with Geneva striping decoration and lovely traditional anglage.
How It Wears
A Calatrava at 31.5mm in width is always the perfect fit, regardless of wrist size. With a lug-to-lug distance measuring 37mm and a svelteness of just under 7mm on the wrist, the wearability of the 3923R is perfect.
Light play allows the whimsicality of its vertical brushed dial, in tandem with the rose gold Breguet-style furniture and elegant case, to truly shine. It's an exemplary dress watch charm from a newly emerging neo-vintage market and from a rare series of special edition Patek timepieces.
Condition
The Patek Philippe 3923R Harrods Edition dates from 1999 and is presented in mint condition. The watch is offered with an extract, service papers from Patek Philippe dated from 2018, the original Harrods pouch, original pin buckle and original gloss alligator strap. The watch is fitted to a custom-made Mr Watchley strap.
If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium.
No stock is kept on site.
* Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set *
| Reference | 3923R |
|---|---|
| Movement | Automatic |
| Caliber | Calibre 215 |
| Dial | Vertical grain opaline silver |
| Size (Case) | 31,5 mm |
| Material (Case) | Pink gold |
| Bracelet | Custom Mr Watchley strap |
| Buckle | Patek Philippe rose gold pin buckle |
| Condition | Very good |
| Year | 1999 |
| Papers | Patek Extract from archive & recent service papers |
| Box | Jean Rousseau & Harrods Pouch |
| Warranty | 2 years |