Patek Philippe Calatrava 1513/1 - Steel and Rose gold

Origin

By 1950, the Calatrava had firmly established itself as the purest expression of Patek Philippe's philosophy. Yet within the reference family existed a small number of highly unusual creations that challenged convention whilst maintaining the elegance for which the Calatrava had become renowned. Among them sits the reference 1513/1, a watch that occupies an exceptionally rare corner of Patek Philippe's production history.

Produced during the final years of the reference's lifespan and sold in December of 1950, the 1513/1 represents a fascinating departure from traditional Calatrava construction. Rather than being executed entirely in a single precious metal, the watch combines a stainless steel case with rose gold lugs and matching rose gold crown. This subtle interplay of materials creates a visual contrast rarely encountered in mid-century Patek Philippe production and reflects a period when the manufacture was willing to experiment with form and composition in ways that remain highly desirable to collectors today.

The reference 1513 was produced in a variety of metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold and the exceptionally rare bi-colour combination of stainless steel and rose gold. While each variant is highly collectible in its own right, it is widely believed that the bi-colour execution represents the rarest configuration of the reference. Combining the practicality of steel with the warmth and elegance of rose gold, it stands as one of the most unusual and elusive Calatravas of the post-war era.

Rarity & Collectability

Scarcity is inherent to virtually every vintage Patek Philippe, but the reference 1513/1 exists on an entirely different level. The reference itself was produced in very limited numbers, while examples combining a stainless steel case with rose gold lugs and crown represent only a tiny fraction of overall production.

While the reference was manufactured in stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold and bi-colour form, it is widely believed that the steel and rose gold execution is the rarest of them all. Unlike many vintage references where rarity is often discussed in relative terms, the 1513/1 occupies a genuinely niche and seldom-seen position within the broader world of Calatrava collecting.

Based on publicly documented examples, auction records and collector research, it is believed that only a handful of bi-colour 1513/1 watches are known today. More remarkable still, it is believed that only three examples are presently known in the exact configuration seen here, combining the stainless steel case, rose gold lugs and crown, silver dial, applied rose gold numerals and indexes, and subsidiary seconds display.

The vast majority of surviving examples reside in long-term private collections and seldom appear publicly. Consequently, opportunities to acquire a watch of this rarity are few and far between. When one further considers the remarkable state of preservation and accompanying Extract from the Archives, the present watch represents an opportunity that may not present itself again for many years.

The Watch

This particular example represents one of the finest surviving executions of the reference that we have encountered. Preserved in exceptional condition and accompanied by its Extract from the Archives, the watch remains a remarkable testament to both the quality of Patek Philippe's manufacture and the care it has received throughout its life.

The stainless steel case displays an elegant understated character that is beautifully contrasted by the warm tone of the rose gold lugs and crown. The visual effect is subtle yet unmistakable. Light catches the rose gold elements independently from the steel body, creating depth and definition that would otherwise be absent from a traditional monochromatic Calatrava. The proportions remain perfect, with the oversized 35 mm case balanced by the graceful downward sweep of the lugs, allowing the watch to wear with both presence and refinement.

Particularly captivating is the silver dial. Executed with remarkable restraint, it exemplifies the design language that would come to define the Calatrava for generations. Applied rose gold numerals at three, nine and twelve provide warmth against the cool silver backdrop. Delicate rose gold hands sweep across the dial, drawing the eye naturally toward the recessed subsidiary seconds register at six o'clock. The raised enamel Patek Philippe Genève signature remains beautifully crisp after more than seven decades, a subtle yet highly desirable characteristic that further reinforces the originality and exceptional preservation of the watch. Every element feels deliberate, resulting in a dial that is simultaneously minimalist and highly expressive.

Equally important is the state of preservation. The dial retains a crispness and clarity seldom encountered in watches of this age, while the case architecture remains beautifully defined. Taken as a whole, the watch presents as an exceptionally honest and well-preserved example of one of Patek Philippe's rarest post-war Calatravas.

The Movement

Powering the reference 1513/1 is the legendary manually wound calibre 12-120, one of the most celebrated movements of Patek Philippe's golden era. Admired for its elegant proportions, reliability and exceptional finishing, the movement embodies everything collectors have come to appreciate about mid-century Genevan watchmaking.

Featuring beautifully executed Geneva stripes, polished screw heads and meticulously finished bridges, the calibre 12-120 was designed not simply as a mechanism but as an expression of craftsmanship. Its slim architecture allowed Patek Philippe to maintain the elegant profile for which the Calatrava became famous, while its robust construction ensured dependable performance across generations.

How It Wears

Despite its vintage origins, the reference 1513/1 wears with surprising modernity. The oversized 35mm case gives the watch a presence, while the elongated lugs extend its visual footprint further across the wrist.

The contrast between cool steel and warm rose gold adds a subtle sportiness that distinguishes it from traditional precious metal Calatravas, making it equally at home with tailoring or more casual attire. The result is a watch that feels timeless rather than vintage, retaining all of the elegance expected from a Patek Philippe while offering a character entirely its own.

Condition & set

The condition of this example is one of its defining attributes. Preserved to an exceptional standard throughout its life, the watch exhibits a level of originality and integrity seldom encountered among surviving examples of the reference.

The case retains strong geometry and beautiful definition throughout, while the contrasting metals remain vibrant and balanced. The dial displays remarkable cleanliness, preserving the understated beauty that defines the reference. The applied rose gold numerals and indexes remain crisp, while the subsidiary seconds register and printed elements retain excellent clarity.

Considering both its rarity and state of preservation, this represents an extraordinarily important example of the reference 1513/1 and one of the most compelling vintage Calatravas to emerge from the period.

The watch is accompanied by a Patek Philippe box and an Extract from the Archives.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium. No stock kept on site * Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for safe transportation in addition to its original set.

Reference	1513/1
Movement	Manual Wound
Caliber	Calibre 12-120
Dial	Silver - Applied Rose gold hour markers
Size (Case)	"Oversized" 35 mm
Material (Case)	Steel and rose gold
Bracelet	Mr Watchley strap
Hands	Rose gold
Condition	Excellent
Year	1950 - Sold in 1950
Papers	Extract from archive
Box	Yes
Warranty	2 years