Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Rétrograde - Full set

Origin

Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the watch world's horological darlings, with the Reverso being their most recognisable model. Released in 1931, the Reverso's case was designed to help British officers based in India protect the glass on their watch when playing polo. The central section of the watch was able to be slid out, rotated to display the solid case back face-up, and then returned to its original position between the flanking lugs. This reversing action, in turn, protected the watch's dial and crystal from polo-based accidents. Since then, the Reverso name has seen endless variations, including different sizes, precious metal pieces, and complications. The cornerstone of the brand's legacy is deeply rooted in movement manufacturing. The brand has over 1200 calibres under its belt and a star-filled résumé of watchmakers using their creations, such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. With countless innovations, this reputation continues today, with many colloquially referring to Jaeger-LeCoultre as 'The Watchmaker's Watchmaker'.

In 1991, Jaeger LeCoultre looked to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Reverso and took on a ten-year R&D project to demonstrate its mastery of complications by releasing six complicated Reverso models within ten years. These watches were the bedrock of future evolutions of the model. From 1991-2000, they released Reverso models with a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, retrograde chronograph, tourbillon, power reserve indicator, and a dual time. Each limited to 500 pieces, many roads modern Jaeger LeCoultre has since taken can be traced back to one of these six models, with the Chronograph Retrograde of 1996 predating the game-changing in-house chronograph from A.Lange & Söhne, the Datograph. Work on the Datograph began in 1995, debuting in 1999, whereas JLC started to work on the Calibre 829 within the Chronograph Retrograde in 1992, with a debut in 1996. What's also interesting is a comparison of the technicals between both watches, as the 829 has a beat rate of 28,800 vph, with a 4.5mm height, and a power reserve of 44 hours, whereas the Lange ​​L951.1 has a frequency of 18,000 vph, a height of 7.5mm, and a reserve of 36 hours. While Lange's Datograph calibre L951.1 trumps the 829 when it comes to production at scale compared to a 500-piece run of the Reverso, whichever way you slice it, the Chronograph Rétrograde is an overlooked gem.

The Watch

The 1990s remains a treasure trove of unsung heroes and overlooked watchmaking gems. Even with more eyeballs directing attention towards the era in which watch collecting as we know it today took shape, there are still watches that have dodged the limelight, including this Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Rétrograde. Released in 1996, the story of this special Reverso begins in 1991 and the 60th anniversary of the model. To celebrate this milestone, JLC embarked on a ten-year-long R&D project to demonstrate its mastery of complications via six complicated Reverso models within ten years. Each was limited to 500 pieces, and this Chronograph Rétrograde was the 4th new watch released by the 'Watchmaker's Watchmaker'. Rendered in 18k pink gold, the compact Grande Taille case is entirely polished and inherently includes hallmarks of the Reverso, such as the gadroons, tapered lugs, and reversing centre case. Being an integrated chronograph, the two pushers on the right side of the case are in line with the crown at three o'clock and also carry a polished finish.

The dial of the Reverso Chronograph Rétrograde is a tale of two halves, with the primary dial housing the most traditional of styling, starting with its silver dial complete with central wave guilloché. Surrounding this is a brushed chapter ring with black vertically arranged Arabic numerals, a date complication at six, and a chronograph indicator at five. When the chronograph isn't in operation, the indicator reveals the word Arret – or "stop". Start the chronograph, and the indicator will cover Arret and reveal the word Marche, or "run". Moving to the top of the dial, the twelve numerals have been replaced by a solid gold, applied take on the watchmaker's logo. Rounding off this traditionally themed dial is a pair of blued sword hands for the hours and minutes. Flipping the internal chassis of the case reveals the chronograph functionality of this watch, and we're met with a beautiful look at the calibre 829 and the charming execution of its twin registers. Firstly, a large, chronograph hand tracking the seconds is centralised to the dial with a silvered seconds track around the needle-style hand. Beneath, a retrograde elapsed 30-minute counter sits towards the bottom, with both registers being directly recessed into the movement bridges. Blued screws, Geneva striping, subtle anglage, and brushed steel components create a mechanical canvas that is a true pleasure of craftsmanship to enjoy.

This Reverso tells the story of JLC unlike any other; one side shows traditional, timeless style, and the other spotlights their watchmaking and technical abilities, all encased in a magnetic precious metal. 

The Movement

Powering the Chronograph Retrograde is the JLC calibre 829. As previously discussed, this hand-wound movement has a power reserve of 40 hours, vibrates at 28,800 vph, and is a flyback chronograph. The movement was one of the first and only in-house double-faced chronograph movements.

How It Wears

The Reverso Chronograph Retrograde was one of the first Reverso models to use the Grande Taille case, and it's easy to see why it went on to become such a popular size for the model. Measuring 42mm lug to lug, 26mm wide, and with a thickness of just 9.5mm, this Chronograph Rétrograde is a joy on the wrist. It strikes the right balance between feeling compact and traditional while being well-balanced and considerate of the complications it houses. The piece hails from an era before watch sizes were supersized and lost much of their allure, making it an unexpected pleasure to wear.

Condition

This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Rétrograde is offered in excellent condition and is presented as a full set including the original inner and outer box, warranty papers, certificate, manual, and booklet. It comes with the original JLC rose gold folding buckle and is fitted to a Mr Watchley A Madras Khaki Leather strap.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium