Habring² Erwin “Star” - SJX Edition One

Origin

Developed by the mastermind couple of Richard & Kristina Habring in Austria, Habring² is an Austrian-based watch manufacturer creating some of the most thoughtfully unassuming watches of the independent watch scene. As one of the eminent brands championing approachable, true watchmaking, their watches start under €10,000 and feature calibres with components created by themselves and their network of independent suppliers. The founding of Habring² was no coincidence, nor was it Richard's first foray into the watchmaking world; quite the opposite. Just out on watchmaking school and having secured a job at IWC, Richard was tasked with democratising the rattrapante chronograph so the ​​complication could be mass-produced and aligned with IWC's pricing structure. Richard succeeded two years later, and his cam system favouring approach was the key to realising IWC's Doppelchrono in 1992. After leaving the Schaffhausen-based brand in 1996, he spent the following years working for the likes of Jaeger LeCoultre and A. Lange & Söhne. In 2004, with his wife beside him, Habring² was founded. The husband and wife duo specialise in watches that blend interesting complications (yes, including split seconds, of course) with timeless, clever aesthetics that straddle the borders of traditional and modern. 

Founded by Jiaxian SU in 2011, SJX is an online publication specialising in reporting on watches across the entire spectrum of horology. In 2021, they worked closely with Habring² on a special edition of the Erwin model, a deadbeat seconds watch first seen in 2016. Created to coincide with the publication's 10th anniversary, the watch was limited to just 50 pieces, making this technical feat visually appealing for numerous reasons.

The Watch

From the era that gave us the Ferrari 250 and rock & roll, it's difficult not to feel inspired by the best of the 1950s. In the world of watches, the decade saw the dawn of technological innovations, now iconic models, and it was one of the first eras to shift the cultural perception of watches; it's no wonder SJX and Habring² felt inspired for their Erwin "Star". In 2021, SJX teamed up with the manufacturer to create a unique 'stelline' dial within the beautiful Erwin to mark ten years of the online watch publication. Cased in stainless steel and measuring 38.5mm, this mid-sized piece is timelessly elegant in form, reminiscing a mid-century Calatrava style case and bezel structure, complete with a polished finish throughout.

As shared by Jiaxian SU when this watch was announced, the inspiration for the dial of this Erwin comes from mid-century Rolex dials known as 'Stelline' or stars. These original Rolex dials are incredibly rare, having always been produced in low numbers, resulting in one of the most desirable non-sports watch Rolex features. While the Rolex ref. 6088 'Galaxy' has a glossy black lacquer dial, the Habring² features a rich blue tone to its base, with all dial printing and furniture complemented in a striking gold hue. The gilded brass star markers are stamped, diamond-cut, polished, plots of lume added, and then applied to the dial for additional depth. Each cardinal point favours dagger indexes and, in keeping with this appearance, are subtly lumed Dauphine hands with a long diamond counterbalanced central second hand.

Conscious that the inspiration for this dial came from a watch approximately 70 years old, both SJX and Habring² were sure to adjust the proportions of the furniture to ensure the modernity of this creation is felt on the wrist.

The Movement

Powering the Erwin Star is the manually wound A11S Calibre. Rather than the familiar sweep typically associated with mechanical movement, this redesigned Valjoux 7750 calibre has a deadbeat second (or jumping seconds) module that ticks once for every second. In true Habring² style, this complex complication has been re-imagined with the 7750's form being upgraded and modified. The movement has a power reserve of 48 hours and is finished to a classic yet elegant standard, with anglage, circular brushing, and perlage all visible via its display case back.

How It Wears

At 38.5mm wide with a height of 10.5mm, this watch is suitable for the full spectrum of wrist proportions. Whether this is a large watch for you or more on the compact side, one thing that's always striking is that dial. Sure, the rich blue dial hue pops, and the golden accents hint at history, but the depth achieved by raising the markers is the true unsung hero of the show.

Condition

The Habring² Erwin "Star" SJX Edition One is in great condition and fitted to a Mr Watchley Boxed Navy Blue strap. The piece is offered today as a complete, full set including its original dark blue calfskin strap with pin buckle.