Chopard L.U.C. 1860 - 1.96 movement - Black Guilloché with Baguette dial - Ref. 16/1860/2S



From ornate jewellery and gems to fine mechanical watchmaking, Chopard is one brand that exemplifies beauty. Although arguably more well known for their jewellery making, Chopard's mechanical timekeeping legacy stretches back to 1860 when Louis-Ulysse Chopard established the firm at just 24. Chopard's watchmaking savoir-faire perpetually evolved ultimately under the complete control of Paul-André, Louis-Ulysse’s grandson. However, due to none of his sons showing an interest in taking over the firm, Chopard was acquired by Karl Scheufele III. Once the acquisition was completed, Scheufele III worked closely with his family to develop each string to Chopard's bow, including the ladies' collections and high-end jewellery headed by Caroline Scheufele. At the same time, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele captained the watch department. Today both siblings remain at Chopard and share the presidency of this esteemed manufacturer.

During the 1990s, Karl-Friedrich opened up a manufacturer dedicated to the development and production of in-house calibres. Albeit a risky move, this decision was a prosperous one for Chopard. In 1996 the watchmaker announced its first in-house calibre, the Calibre 1.96. With a reputation for using svelte movements, the micro-rotor powered 1.96 debuted in the LUC 1860 collection in 1997, a new elegant and timeless design dress watch. This piece was named after the brand's founder and was greatly received by the industry. With traditionally executed details and proportions, the LUC 1860 was fitted with a finely produced solid gold dial created by Metalem - a manufacturer who has gone on to work with the likes of Philippe Dufour for his Simplicity. 

The Watch

The year 2022 marked a significant milestone in horological history with the 25th anniversary of the esteemed LUC 1860. In honor of this occasion, 2023 saw the introduction of a new 1860 reedition in steel, featuring an elegant salmon dial. This reissue celebrates the legacy of the iconic model, highlighting the timeless elegance and technical excellence that have come to define the LUC 1860 series.

A prime example of this legacy is the exquisite 16/1860/2S model, purchased in 2005, which embodies the sophisticated craftsmanship and design philosophy of Chopard. Encased in 18-carat white gold, this timepiece features a 36.5mm case characterized by its subtle yet sophisticated aesthetics. The soft, elegantly restrained exterior is accentuated by a stepped bezel, seamlessly transitioning into the lugs and case body with remarkable slenderness.

The dial of the 16/1860/2S is a testament to intricate design and meticulous execution. Crafted by Metalem from gold, the black guilloché dial exudes a sense of purity and refinement. The engine-turned stepped dial is framed by a simplified seconds track, and the diamond baguette hour markers are complemented by a set of large dauphine-style hands. These hands hover just above a subsidiary seconds register adorned with concentric circles, adding a touch of sophistication.

Unique to this particular piece are the 11 baguettes hour markers, adding a layer of exclusivity and enhancing the watch's luxurious appeal. The date aperture at six o'clock, with its black window, aligns perfectly with Chopard's commitment to detail. 

Adding to its allure, the 16/1860/2S is an exceptionally rare piece, with fewer than 10 examples manufactured featuring the unique 11 baguettes hour markers. This rarity makes it a coveted treasure among collectors and a true testament to Chopard's ability to create timeless masterpieces.

The Movement

The LUC manufacture calibre 1.96 is the beating heart of this Chopard and, much like the watch it powers, has its own celebrated reputation.

Michel Parmigiani designed the movement in conjunction with Chopard taking three years to develop. The movement is awash with black polishing from its swan neck regulator to each screw head. The anglage on each bridge, alongside the engraved and signed platinum micro-rotor, glows effortlessly and plays with light and shadow.

The bridges feature Côtes de Genève striping and house the Geneva hallmark identifying this as a Geneva Sealed piece. Not only is this a gorgeous movement to view through the display caseback, but it's also technologically impressive. Said micro-rotor generates energy which is stored in its two mainspring barrels that are stacked on top of each other to optimise space and produce 70 hours of running autonomy.

With a Breguet overcoil hairspring, 32 jewels, COSC certification, and a beat rate of 4 Hz, it's no wonder this precise and efficient movement remains highly regarded. So much so, Philippe Dufour is said to have rated this as one of the top finished movements at the time, only behind his own creations and, famously A. Lange & Söhne.

How It Wears

The Chopard LUC 16/1860/2S owes much of its appeal to its well-balanced proportions, where the sizing plays a crucial role. Measuring a conservative 36.5mm in width, it falls within the mid-sized category, complemented by a slim 8.4mm thickness.

This particular iteration stands out exceptionally on both male and female wrists, distinguishing itself from other 1860 models. The captivating black dial with baguettes hour markers, not only grabs attention but also boasts added depth due to the intricately adorned guilloché pattern. With its stepped bezel and understated case, the watch presents a contemporary wrist presence that is primarily defined by its dial. The lugs contribute sensibly to its overall appearance.

It's essential to underscore the significance of this noteworthy 1860, appealing to both Chopard enthusiasts and experts in the neo-vintage realm.


This exclusive Chopard LUC 16/1860/2S with black guilloché dial is sold complete with its original box, warranty papers, COSC papers, Geneva Seal papers, additional hunter-style caseback, white gold pin buckle, manual, and leaflets. The watch is offered in mint condition.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium

No stock kept on site

* Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set *

Reference 16/1860/2S
Movement Automatic
Calibre 1.96
Dial Black with 12 baguettes
Size (Case) 36,5 mm
Material (Case) White gold
Bracelet Mr Watchley Saffiano Onyx
Buckle Original white gold Chopard pin buckle
Condition Very good
Year Sold in 2005
Papers Yes
Box Yes
Warranty 2 years

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