Cartier Tank Louis Automatique "Jumbo" 17002 - Cartier yellow gold Mesh bracelet - 1970's


The watch 

Pure Cartier gold. A glamorously gorgeous 1970s Louis Cartier Tank complete with its extremely rare and superbly stylish Cartier Milanese bracelet. The sumptuously divine watch accessory for which the Jewellers par excellence are simply untouchable.

This exquisite watch is an example of the 1970s Tank Louis Cartier Automatique 'Jumbo', a piece also known as the vintage Tank XL. While the model in general is a particularly desired piece from the vintage era, the through and through solid golden beauty and incredibly rare bracelet of this specific piece amplifies that Cartier desire tenfold.

Louis-Joseph Cartier (1875-1942), designer of the Tank, was a designer and businessman extraordinaire with an impeccable sense of style. The timepiece presented here is the version of the Tank that he deemed worthy to carry his name. With smoother and softer case lines than the design of the very first Tank that preceded it, the Tank Normale (1917), the Tank Louis Cartier (1922) is the blueprint for that understated yet unmistakable Cartier elegance.

It is one of the most popular, desired Tanks in the Tank family. Understandably so with its clean, superbly chic lines and subtle but instantly recognisable sophistication.

Throughout the years Cartier have played with the design's dimensions and dial configuration but one aspect of this precious timepiece has never been touched - the Tank Louis Cartier is only ever produced in precious metals. Ranging from its classic measurements of 24mm x 30mm to the considerably larger 34.9mm x 40.4mm of a version released in 2012, Cartier has certainly moved to accommodate the modern taste for a larger case size. For those interested in vintage LC Tanks however, larger case options are almost non-existent. An exception being the particularly special timepiece at hand.

During the 1970s, Cartier produced this 28mm x 34mm 'Jumbo' Louis Cartier Tank in yellow and white gold. Its reference number is 17002. Taking into consideration the era of its production, it is likely that no more than a few hundred pieces of the 'Jumbo' exist and its larger case size is an absolute exception for the vintage period.

This particular timepiece is propelled to another level by its simply to die for Cartier Milanese 18k gold bracelet. The Milanese or Mesh style of bracelet first appeared on a watch around the 1920s but the 60s and 70s were the golden age for the ultra-elegant style. The incredibly finely knitted yellow gold bracelet on this piece is removable and brings that look and feel of pure luxe, pure wow to both the timepiece and the wrist. Exceptionally rare and exceptionally beautiful, this bracelet is an unmatchable Cartier watch accessory.

A pure white lacquered dial is completed with Cartier's traditional black printed Roman numerals while fine, elegant and blued steel sword hands mark the hours and minutes. The dial is signed at the 12 and just below the 6 sits 'Paris'. The dial is has some patina, a classic Cartier chic. Turning to the back of the watch, the beaded, sapphire cabochon complete crown is passed and the unusual design of the caseback is revealed. A raised, circular central piece that hides a novel feature of this LC Tank - its automatic movement. The engravings on the back of the watch include 'Cartier', 'Paris', a personalised engraving as well as the watch's reference number plus serial number.


Another unique feature of the 'Jumbo' Louis Cartier Tank is its movement. It is the only LC Tank that is powered by an automatic movement, Calibre 170. The calibre is an ETA movement and the raised, circular back of the piece is as a result of the automatic movement that it houses.

How it wears

With the innate grace and elegance of any Tank Louis Cartier. Upon first glance, the caseback style of this watch may raise a few eyebrows. The well-trained Cartier eye has come to expect an ultra-flat caseback when a Louis Cartier Tank is presented. Yet the reality is that when on the wrist, this design difference is imperceptible - the watch sits perfectly and looks incredible.

Not only does this piece look incredible but it feels incredible too. Very little compares to the feeling of 360 degrees worth of Cartier crafted yellow gold draped around the wrist. The ease and straightforward elegance of the LC Tank case design contrasted by the intricately woven bracelet (96 mm  x 62 mm ) of this Jumbo make it a truly stunning Cartier dress watch. A truly stunning dress watch with a wonderful slice of historical exclusivity.

The set & condition

This rare and ravishingly golden gem of Cartier heritage comes with its removable Cartier Milanese bracelet and Cartier folding clasp complete with Cartier engravings. Consistent with its vintage status, the dial does show some minor signs of age.


Bringing the finest creativity to the world since 1847, Cartier is that show-stopping, sparkling solitaire amongst jewellers and watchmakers. Unique, original and continually captivating, the Cartier name has a weight to it that inspires a sense of exception, quality and above all - beauty. A name, a family with a sixth sense for divine creation, the Cartier story began with Louis-François Cartier (1819-1904). 

As with any family business, success almost always involves striking that perfect combination of vision, talent and management. Add to that an inclination for taking the right risks, a good deal of grit, an abundance of hard work and of course, a fair few strokes of luck. Not at all elements that often and easily unite. Yet for the Cartiers, those bright stars of the midnight blue Parisian skyline would align.

Louis-François began as an apprentice to a jewellery maker, Monsieur Picard. In 1847, when M. Picard announced he would be vacating his workshop in central Paris that very first stroke of luck struck. With a small dose of financial leniency from M. Picard, Louis-François was able to take over that workshop and lay the very first brick for the foundations of the House of Cartier. Louis-François, eventually joined by his son Alfred, would continue to lay those foundations - jewel by jewel, piece by perfect piece. Yet it would be his grandsons: Louis, Pierre and Jacques, who would complete the construction of the House of Cartier, building it up to the dizzying heights of international fame and success. They would provide the structure and composition that would allow Cartier to weather any storm, to withstand the test of time. And the crowning crest that they gave to that spectacular house? The Cartier Tank.

A watch that sent shockwaves through early twentieth-century high society with its radical, masculine and definite lines - Cartier's Tank took inspiration from the aerial view of that new and innovative machine that fundamentally changed how war was waged. It, in turn, would fundamentally change how time could be told and remains to this day as robust, as iconic, as exquisite and as desirable as ever.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. No stock is kept on site.

* Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set *

Reference 17002
Movement Automatic
Caliber Cartier 170
Dial White lacquered dial 
Size (Case) 28 mm x 34 mm 
Material (Case) Yellow gold (96mm x 62 mm)
Bracelet Original yellow gold Cartier Mesh bracelet
Glass Plexi
Condition Good
Year 1970's
Papers  - 
Box  - 
Warranty 2 years


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