Cartier Santos Dumont 90th anniversary - Salmon dial - Platinum


Platinum | Salmon dial


Since 1847 the Parisian ‘King of Jewellers, Jewellers of Kings’ has produced many instant classics after turning its eye to watches. But no one timepiece signed off by Cartier can compete with the historical account of the Santos Dumont, the first wristwatch created in 1904 by Louis Cartier.

In an era marked by invention and adventure, Alberto Santos-Dumont pioneered in aviation. He was the first to fly in a powered airplane with his 14-biplane in Europe and today we thank the world’s first pilot wristwatch – the Cartier Santos Dumont – to him. Santos-Dumont was born in 1873 in Cabunga, Brazil into a wealthy family of coffee producers. Riding locomotive and steam tractors from the family plantation whilst being young, he already had his head in the clouds, dreaming of flying.

The family moved to Europe on the search for medical treatment when Santos-Dumont’s father became paralyzed after a horse-riding accident. Alberto’s imagination and flying obsession was further sparked in Paris, after seeing hot air balloons hover over the city. His first designed balloon, the Brésil, was flown in 1898. It didn’t take long for he was designing and flying steerable balloons (coined ‘dirigible’). It was said he would float at rooftop level around Paris and would land next to cafés in the city fancying lunch.

Alberto Santos-Dumont wanted to have his hands free for controls while flying – pocket watches were no longer ticking the rhythm of his ambitions. That is why Louis Cartier created the Santos Dumont model in 1904 for his aviator friend, allowing ‘this man of action to tell the time more easily whilst in flight’.

‘What is that strapped onto his wrist?’, was the common response looking at newspaper photos of Alberto in his flying machine, that only became available for the public in 1911 (in collaboration with Edmond Jaeger). Aside from being the first pilot’s watch, the deployant buckle that Cartier developed for the Santos Dumont in 1909 was another first on the market.

Today its successor, the Cartier Santos (1978), is part of the horological dictionary, with its importance resonating through in the Collection Privée Cartier Paris. Belatedly celebrating the 90th anniversary of the historical Santos-Dumont (1904-1994), Cartier launched 90 splendid Santos Dumont watches in platinum with a salmon dial. 

The Cartier Santos Dumont 90th Anniversary edition is one of the most sough-after vintage timepieces of the moment.

The Watch

This stunning Cartier Santos Dumont 90th Anniversary edition is one of 90 pieces created, with a slightly larger case than its vintage equivalent: 36mm x 27mm, making it the quintessential dress watch.

The satin finished platinum case has a slim design – thanks to the hand-wound Frédéric Piguet calibre – and has a platinum plate bezel with tiny screws, one of the signature style choices linked to the Santos DNA. The jubilee-dial has an extraordinary soft salmon tone, featuring black printed Roman numerals and an outer railway minute track. Honouring the Santos Dumont from 1904, the 90th anniversary model has identical blued Breguet-style hands and a white gold folding buckle.

On the caseback the watch is adorned with a Santos Dumont engraving, along with its reference, serial and limited edition number.

The Movement

The Cartier Santos Dumont 90th Anniversary edition – with reference 1575-1 – is powered by the manual-wound 021MC caliber, based on the Frédéric Piguet 21 and designed as the thinnest watch movement on the market with a diameter of 20,4mm and 1,75mm thickness (it has hold up to this reputable claim for 21 years). The 90-year-old movement is still produced today.

The 021MC has a power reserve of 42 hours and contains 18 jewels. The movement originally oscillated at 18,000 A/h but has been escalated to 21,600 A/h.


This limited edition Cartier Santos Dumont 90th Anniversary edition (XX/90) is in mint condition and has excellent functionality. The watch comes with its original white gold Cartier folding buckle. 

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. 

We are based in Ghent, Belgium


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Reference 1575-1
Movement Manual Wound
Calibre 021MC
Dial Salmon 
Size (Case) 27mm X 36mm
Material (Case) Platinum
Bracelet Blue Saffiano
Glass Sapphire
Condition Mint
Year 1994
Papers -
Box -
Warranty 2 years

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