Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5140P

The Watch

Irresistibly classic while conveying elements of innovation, the 5140 represents Patek Philippe's advancement of the serially produced perpetual calendar, with perhaps no better metal and dial combination reflecting this progression than this 5140P. As the P in its reference denotes, this white metal modernised perpetual calendar is presented in platinum with multiple efforts of note to preserve the traditional spirit of a formal round perpetual calendar. At 37mm in width with a thickness of 9mm, regardless of its heft, the 5140P is remarkably graceful. Its case body and stepped convex bezel exclusively form the case profile of this complicated timekeeper, contributing significantly to the external fluidity, a design cue that's echoed throughout the entire case to each extremity of the soft lug design. Combined with its recessed crown fitment, the 5140's exterior straddles the line wonderfully between formality and maintaining alertness to contemporary desires.

This duo of attributes is evident throughout its case, but it's the 5140's dial that is a true breeding ground for such sensibility. Patek Philippe's aim with the 5140 was to align the PC complication more closely with market desires, and the sharpness and exacting execution of this dial illustrates an accomplishment of such aims. A rich metallic blue sunburst base complements the white metal case and furniture with total sophistication, exuding a sleek and refined character. Round minute markers around the dial's periphery only pause to make way for the white gold dart-style applied markers. This execution is an early indication of the 5140's traditionally minded nature, with enormous matching white gold Dauphine hour and minute hands as hallmarks of elegant centred Patek pieces. The current day, 24-hour indication, month, date, moonphase, and leap year can all be found within the three sub-registers that occupy the lower half of this dial with the utmost balance and unmistakable elegance. Worthy of note is how only two of the hands for the sub-registers are realised in white, whereas on the 5140P with the grey dial of 2016, all hands calendar hands are white. It may only sound like a small detail, but thanks to this blue dial favouring white gold hands, it further displays this reference's level of watchmaking lore.

A watch governed by simplicity, balance, and logic, this significant 5140P is a heavyweight realisation of a totemic complication for Patek Philippe. Refined in its execution, assured in its modernism.

The Movement

Powering this 5140P is the automatic ultra-slim 240Q calibre, a perpetual calendar movement first launched in 1977. This is nothing short of a mechanical icon, featuring on generations of perpetual calendars, and still found in their latest creations, including the 5740 Nautilus. Measuring only 3.8mm thick, this 22k gold micro-rotor powered piece boasts 38-48 hours of autonomy, a Gyromax® style free-sprung balance beating at 21,600 vph to ensure accuracy regardless of everyday knocks to the watch. From linear Côtes de Genève throughout the bridges, perlage underneath the micro-rotor, buttery smooth anglage executed by hand, and black polishing, there's good reason why many consider this to be one of the most beautiful watch movements ever produced.

How It Wears

37mm wide, 9mm thick, and a length of 46mm. Proportions like those typically only appear on the most refined of time-only dress watches, a critical factor in the wide appeal of this complex 5140. Smaller and rounded wrists may find its fitment not as flush as a flatter and slightly larger wrist, but with that stepped convex bezel, polished finish, and simply staggering clarity, this perpetual calendar is a proportional masterclass. Balance is beauty, and with this reference, balance is its essence.

Condition

This Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5140P Blue is available as a complete, full set. Dating from 2018, the watch is sold with its original blue alligator Patek strap, platinum deployant clasp and is sold fitted to a Mr Watchley Saffiano Navy blue strap.

Origin 

Patek Philippe's standing is truly unrivalled. The Calatrava 96 from 1932 was a turning point for the manufacturer and became the defining blueprint for dress watches. The innovative, defying, and now ultra-desirable Nautilus from the 1970s was a pioneer. And mastery of complications to such a degree few watchmakers comprehensively compare, there are ample reasons why Patek is regarded as the zenith in true luxury at a serial level. But it's the latter that connoisseurs revere Patek for the most, and if required to boil their expertise down to one complication, it would have to be the perpetual calendar. You only need to look at their lists of firsts to comprehend why the complication is synonymous with them. Such accomplishments include but are not limited to: the first perpetual calendar wristwatch (1925), the first perpetual calendar series watch with the 1526 (1941), the first self-winding perpetual calendar (1962), and the first perpetual calendar chronograph (1941). Patek maintained its calendar distinction throughout the 20th century, and, miraculously, as time ticked over in the 80s and 90s, their momentum showed no signs of slowing, regardless of the turmoil caused by quartz technology. In 1986, they debuted the 3940. Returning to three subdials for the calendar displays, 36mm sizing with an ultra-thin form, timeless dial features, and a micro-rotor powered calibre, the 3490 is still affectionately regarded for its classical attributes from a design and mechanical standpoint. It is perhaps one of the most noteworthy recent references because of this, and after 20 years, in 2006, the 5140 followed in its footsteps.

The 3940 focused on delivering classic fundamentals while perfecting serial production of an ultra-thin perpetual calendar, and the 5140 followed in its footsteps while ushering in more variety and spice to the portfolio, with a broader range of colours and a greater focus on modernisation. Its size increased to 37mm, and although the 240Q still powered the watch, numerous visual evolutions took place to bring the perpetual calendar complication firmly into the 21st century. In 2010 the 5140P in platinum with a sharp blue dial joined the family alongside the 5140R in rose gold with a brown dial.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium
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