F.P. Journe Chronomètre Bleu - Full set - 2018
The Watch
When discussing proponents of hype and waiting list culture, the same names and references are often thrown around. There's a watch with a black ceramic bezel initially destined for the race track and some with integrated bracelets that take inspiration from portholes, but one highly waitlisted and game-changing piece for the independent scene is the Chronomètre Bleu by F.P. Journe. What started as an approachable offering post-'08 financial crisis quickly turned into unprecedented demand for one of the most challenging watches the watchmaker would make, a demand that still remains.
If there's only one takeaway from the Chronomètre Bleu, it's that there's nothing regular about an F.P. Journe, as even their entry watch innovates – take its tantalum case. This metal is perfect for watch cases as it is corrosion / wear-resistant and non-allergenic, making for an easy choice when creating a watch. But it's not all sunshine and rainbows, as this dark grey/blue-coloured metal is notoriously challenging to mine and work with. It is a rarer metal than gold and, therefore, is seldom used in watchmaking. These challenges didn't deter F.P. Journe, giving this unique exterior an entirely polished finish. The case carries a domed bezel with a symmetrical caseback and bezel flange that defines the mid-case profile of this elegant piece. The lugs blend flawlessly with that mid-case and downturn perfectly for wearability, aided by a 39mm width, a middle-ground size rarely offered by the watchmaker.
The case is intriguing, but we're all here for the dial. Produced from multiple layers of hand-polished blue lacquer, it's nothing short of mesmerising. The dial comprises seven layers, each having to be dried before the next layer can be added, eventually giving the watch its mirrored dial effect once viewed at an angle. Although unconfirmed, it's understood that the fail rate for these dials during production was between 60% - 80%, such as the complexity of its execution. Nevertheless, the trade-off is worth it, as the dial is remarkably unique, shifting from vibrant chrome blue to slate grey and glossy black. This effect is best accentuated when related to its white printed Arabic numerals that cast a unique multi-shadow on the endless dial below. Yet the piece de la résistance is its sub-register, as, regardless of the dial's fragility, it carries a concentric circle guilloché that resolutely maintains its vibrant blue tone. The sub-register has a second railroad track and a pomme counterbalanced hand. Sitting below the bold 'F.P. Journe—Invenit et Fecit' signature are the hour and minute hands in white and classic Journe teardrop style form.
The Movement
The calibre 1304 powers this Chronomètre Bleu, and its 18k rose gold rendering is striking for numerous reasons. Set against the grey/ blue tones of the tantalum case, this precious metal calibre demonstrates the prestige of F.P. Journe, with its manual-winding boasting 56 hours of autonomy from its dual mainspring barrels, which sit parallel. Finished by hand, the movement combines barleycorn guilloché for the base plate with a Côte de Genève decoration on the bridges and black polishing for the screw heads. All internal edges are smoothly chamfered and bevelled, a tasteful reminder that this ultra-modern feeling Journe is built upon traditional roots.
How It Wears
While we could discuss here how the svelteness of its case is beautifully balanced with its width and height, these points of interest pale in comparison when that multi-lacquered dial is staring back at you. It's a dial on the wrist that truly does live up to the hype, and the way it's contrasted by a steely, dark and heavy enigmatic case material only benefits the watch's mysticism. It's one of the most versatile dress watches ever produced and one of the foremost influential independent-made watches.
Condition
This Chronomètre Bleu is in excellent condition and offered as a full set. Dating from 2018, the watch is sold with its original outer box, inner box, warranty card, Journe cleaning cloth, original Journe strap and pin buckle. The set comes with 3 custom Mr WATCHLEY straps as well. A grained midnight blue, a grained mid grey and a grained cream.
Origin
Excelling in reputation and watchmaking merits alike, François-Paul Journe's eponymous brand is simply one of the leading influential watchmakers in the independent world, and his road to success is just as fascinating as his watches. Having left school at 14, François-Paul spent a summer with his uncle, a clock restorer. After undertaking formal horological study – to which he was expelled – he united with his uncle once more at his new workshop in Paris, where an understanding and appreciation for traditional 18th-century watchmaking lore was nurtured. He also began taking commissions from clients and was eventually mentored by George Daniels. Around this time, he built his own tourbillon chronometer and a pocket watch in his free time. Other early creations from François-Paul include a planetarium mechanism for Asprey, a pocket watch with a fusée chain, a five-second remontoire, a retrograde perpetual calendar and an equation of time, as well as an early failed attempt at a resonance, something François-Paul would later master.
In 1985, Journe started a workshop to build watches for collectors. In 1989, he opened a movement manufacturer, and in 1996, he formed TIM SA, which was dedicated to exclusive calibres for brands. He then launched 'F.P. Journe—Invenit et Fecit' in 1999 with the Tourbillon Souverain. While the F.P. Journe brand's savoir-faire and ability to translate tradition into contemporary have cemented itself as a leader of independent watchmaking, its most straightforward watch remains an incredibly in-demand piece.
After the 2008 financial crisis, François-Paul was keen to preserve his brand's standing amongst the informed while ensuring he could stay operational; the result was a new entry-level watch known as the Chronomètre Bleu. Rather than offering a mediocre or perhaps lacklustre option for the lower price point, François-Paul chose the path of innovation using tantalum for the case, an unusual and complicated metal to work with. The dial was complex but undeniably stunning, with a famously high failure rate due to the multiple layers of lacquer and hand polishing required. The result of all this was the Chronomètre Bleu becoming the in-demand watch of F.P. Journe due to its universally agreed low retail price. As a result, production was cut in 2019, but many collectors recognise the watch’s transformative impact on the independent watchmaking scene.
If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium.
No stock kept on site
| Reference | Chronomètre Souverain |
|---|---|
| Movement | Manual |
| Caliber | Calibre 1304 |
| Dial | Bleu |
| Size (Case) | 39 mm |
| Material (Case) | Tantalum |
| Bracelet | 3 x Mr WATCHLEY & 1 FP Journe strap |
| Buckle | Tantalum FP Journe Buckle |
| Condition | Excellent |
| Year | 2018 |
| Papers | Yes |
| Box | Yes |
| Warranty | 2 years |