Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar 2117 - Steel - Salmon dial

The Watch

Baselworld, 1993. The acclaimed watchmaker credited for the successful renaissance of one of the oldest names in horology personally hands over your new watch specifically commissioned in a previously unavailable configuration. The watchmaker is Daniel Roth, and the watch is this particular rendition of the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar 2117, rendered in a stainless steel case and fitted with a salmon dial.

Although unconfirmed, it's believed that this 2117 is most likely a piece unique creation. This watch is presented today on Mr Watchley directly from the original customer, a Daniel Roth retailer who commissioned the piece at the time. The Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar was exclusively available in 18k gold or platinum, with stainless steel not included in the official line-up. Yet, thanks to this possibly unique execution, we can confirm that at least one steel example was produced.

As one of the first ten perpetual calendars crafted by Daniel Roth, this salmon-on-steel piece is of the utmost significance, and it all begins with the unifying hallmark of a Daniel Roth creation, the double ellipse 'Ellipsocurvex' case. Distinguished by a stepped bezel, straight, sharp lugs, and its general tonneau shape, the compact, traditional, and tastefully simplistic polished exterior is a superb format in stainless steel. The essence of Daniel Roth's sensibilities is best captured in the dials of his creations, and this salmon-dialled example is no exception, reflecting the fundamental nature of his style. Seen here with a vertical ligne guilloché pattern in a gently warming pink tone, this salmon dial is nuanced, unpretentious and utterly sophisticated.

Executed with poise, this perpetual calendar displays the current hours, minutes, day, date, month, and leap year indicator, with the day and month disks being in French. Despite its unique tone, this double-aperture display exemplifies Roth and Dufour's original vision for the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar. Elevating this possibly unique creation further is the distinguished round brushed chapter ring, which, along with the outer minute ring and date chapter ring at six, bears a brushed finish while continuing the salmon colour seen throughout the guilloché portion of the dial. Roman numerals, the dotted minute track, the simplistic arc brand signature, and a stylised typeface for the sub-register are all rendered in black, creating greater contrasting depth. The only juxtaposed injection of colour comes from the heat-blued lance-shaped hands that carry a bold arrow tip to deliver legibility and character.

A watch with a significance that speaks for itself, with a provenance as illustrious and charming as the very creation, this salmon-on-steel perpetual calendar is nothing short of a highly captivating spectacle.

The Movement

Powering this Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar 2117 in steel is a heavily modified Lemania cal.8810. Having collaborated with Philippe Dufour on this movement, Roth was intimately familiar with Lemania calibres from his time at Breguet, and here the large gold finely decorated guilloche rotor commands the display caseback of this special piece. Côtes de Genève striped can be seen on the movement's main plate, along with subtle anglage for the bridges.

How It Wears

Carrying the compact coherent proportions of a rounded case, matched with the pure elegance of rectangular and oval cases, the 'Ellipsocurvex' case from Daniel Roth in this size is a charming wearer on the wrist, suitable for formal and casual cuffs alike. Measuring 38mm in length by 35mm in width, the piece is wonderfully sized for a timepiece carrying this case shape. On the wrist, the refinement of its detailing is unmistakable, and the elevated functionality achieved by its robust stainless steel case is simply fantastic for this complication. Sure, it may be a highly complicated piece, but in steel, it gives an easygoing daily wearing experience, something not many other perpetual calendars of this magnitude can offer.

A noteworthy extract from the legacy of a pioneer of independent watchmaking.

Condition

This Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar 2117 Salmon in Steel dates from 1993 and is in worn condition. It is fitted to a custom Mr Watchley Madras brown strap, which is also fitted to its original Daniel Roth folding clasp, also machined from stainless steel.

Origin

Daniel Roth's passion for watchmaking began decades before he launched his eponymous brand at the tail end of the 20th century. Born into a family connected to the craft, Roth left his role at Audemars Piguet during the 1970s and was entrusted by the Chaumet brothers to revive their latest acquisition, Breguet. For 12 months, Roth devoted himself to studying and researching the brand's origins and the spirit of its founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. With his technical ability and authentic alignment with the brand's history, Roth successfully revived Breguet, swiftly becoming a leading authority of its iconic complication, the tourbillon. With expertise honed, Roth went on to establish his own brand in 1988, making him one of the earliest independent watchmakers. He started producing distinctive watches that blended creativity with classic principles he'd resurrected during the Breguet days. The double-ellipse case, known as the 'Ellipsocurvex', became a signature of his creations, along with fine Abraham-Louis-like guilloché dials that remained universal throughout his pieces. The five coveted complications of his watches included the Perpetual Calendar, Tourbillon, Rétrograde, Minute Repeater, and the Chronograph. The Perpetual Calendar was a significant achievement, and Roth enlisted the help of his close neighbour and skilled watchmaker, Philippe Dufour, to realise it. The two worked together to create a double-digit execution for the day and month displayed via two sub-dials, which were worked into the Ellipsocurvex case format and debuted in 1993.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium