Daniel Roth Extra Plat Ref. 2167 Manual movement - Yellow Gold - Open case back
Origin
After favourable auction results in recent years, alongside the early yet strong signs that a re-launch is in the works, Daniel Roth watches have been enjoying success for a while now. As an independent watch brand that once offered something personal and unique while remaining familiar and significant, these watches have a simple but winning formula. Almost all of that is attributed to the man whose name graces the dial. Coming from a long line of watchmakers, Daniel Roth worked closely with the Chaumet brothers in the 1970s to sensitively return a noteworthy name of horology, Breguet, to its pedestal. Roth was the mechanical key in extracting fundamental design cues from the Abraham-Louis Breguet era, including finely cut and varied guilloché dials, brushed chapter rings, sophisticated predominantly svelte heat-blued hands, as well as the formidable tourbillon complication.
The unification of Roth's technical ability with his in-depth study ensured Breguet's resurgence was prosperous, and he helped shape the brand for fourteen years. With Roth seen as the keystone to the reincarnation of the tourbillon, he quickly became one of the world's leading authorities. Ultimately though, the opportunity presented itself for Roth to use the expertise he'd recently honed into his own brand. In 1988, he did precisely that, and Daniel Roth, the watch brand, was conceived. Roth would draw heavily on his influential time at Breguet when launching his own brand. And despite their distinctive double-ellipse cases (known as the Ellipsocurvex) throughout his collection, the familiar hallmarks extracted for Breguet appear throughout his namesake pieces.
After Bulgari purchased the Daniel Roth name, varying degrees of modernisation to its design language occurred over the following years. This was accelerated in 2011 after Bulgari was incorporated into LVMH, who, in 2022, shared early indications that the brand would return soon.
The Watch
The perpetual calendars, tourbillons, and chronograph references typically enjoy the lion's share of attention and conversation around Daniel Roth watches, but there's a solid case that the purest form by the brand harbour equal amounts of appeal. Case in point, this Extra Plat, reference 2167. Dating from the early 1990s, this early piece is an honest, unadulterated expression of the man behind the brand and his personal achievements during his career rather than an exclusive embodiment of the complexities his namesake brand crafted. Featuring a manual wind calibre visible through a display caseback, this exact configuration is extremely rare. The hallmark of a Daniel Roth creation is its double ellipse 'Ellipsocurvex' case. Here, it's realised in 18-carat yellow gold and distinguished by a stepped rounded bezel, straight, sharp lugs, and an overall tonneau-esque shape. With a high polish finish throughout and its svelte profile, the consolidated and tasteful exterior is paired with a dial configuration and execution exhibiting bountiful character.
Perfecting the nuance of simplicity is an art within itself, and with only three traits, this ref. 2167 demonstrates true mastery. There is nowhere to hide with a dial that appears this straightforward, adding further weight to the fact its elements are remarkably defining. Acting as the canvas in which the remaining features contrast and accent is the hand-engraved vertical ligne guilloché pattern presented in a muted grey tone. Touching every interior curve edge of its dial, this precisely established tapestry motif is only stopped in its tracks by perhaps the second most defining characteristic of a Daniel Roth after the 'Ellipsocurvex' case, its brushed chapter ring. This satin silver ring is painstakingly brushed with a dotted minute track around the periphery, just outside extremely traditional Roman numerals. Tying these two powerful facets together is the lance handset, complete in thermally blued steel. Delivering hours and minutes exclusively for an uncomplicated wearing experience, this pared-back and understated expression is one of the purest Daniel Roth models ever produced. Signed 'DANIEL ROTH' in an arching typeface, this early piece is a seldom-seen reference made even rarer by the manually wound calibre visible through its display caseback. Later examples of this piece feature' Numero X' on the dial or case, however, this example is without this denotation, indicating that it is a first generation.
The Movement
Powering this elegant ref. 2167 is a manually wound movement based on the Piaget Calibre 21. Initially conceived 100 years ago during the 1920s by Piaget, this small movement measures just 1.74mm in thickness and is the primary reason this watch can achieve such slenderness. Signed Daniel Roth, adjusted to five positions, and with 18 jewels, this charming calibre bears Geneva striping finished with chamfering on its angles. Much like the overall ethos of the watch itself, this movement possesses a timeless whimsicality.
How It Wears
Carrying the compact coherent proportions of a rounded case, matched with the elegance of rectangular and oval cases, the 'Ellipsocurvex' case from Daniel Roth in this size is a gorgeous wearer on the wrist, suitable for formal and casual cuffs alike. Measuring 34.5mm in length by 31.5mm in width, and 37.5mm lug to lug, the piece is fantastically proportioned, made even better by its 6.4mm height. On the wrist, the refinement of its detailing is unmistakable and once fitted to a wonderful strap, its thickness is utterly sophisticated. Tastefully encapsulating the human hands behind its brand name, this ref. 2167 Extra Plat isn't just beautiful on the wrist, its humble significance is reserved yet unmistakable.
Condition
This important Daniel Roth Ref. 2167 Extra Plat dates from the early 1990s. The watch is offered for sale as watch only, with its original Daniel Roth strap and yellow gold buckle. Presented in very good condition, this ref. 2167 is fitted with a Mr Watchley Grained Cinnamon leather strap.
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* Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set *
| Reference | 2167 |
|---|---|
| Movement | Manual |
| Caliber | Based on the Piaget Calibre 21 |
| Dial | Muted grey guilloché |
| Size (Case) | 34.5mm x 31.5mm |
| Material (Case) | Yellow gold |
| Bracelet | Mr Watchley Grained Cinnamon |
| Glass | Sapphire |
| Condition | Very good |
| Year | 1990s |
| Papers | - |
| Box | - |
| Warranty | 2 years |