Cartier Santos Dumont Rose gold - Limited to 250 pieces

The Watch

Cartier has never been afraid to challenge perceptions. From the outside, they may seem like a French brand that makes small, precious metal dress watches with Roman numerals and silver dials, but look closer and you'll find pieces that consistently push the boundaries. In 2022, they did precisely that with the announcement of this Santos Dumont. Limited to just 250 pieces, this Dumont is cased in 18k rose gold and features an evocative ivory-coloured lacquered bezel and matching dial. 'Svelteness' encapsulates the external rendering of this particular piece with a gentle curve and a seamless flow to the design that conforms to the wrist with real subtlety. From a profile view, that conformity is unmistakable as its arching case and tapered lugs are outlined by a consistent bevel contrasting the satin finish. And then the star of the show takes over, as the beige, ivory-toned lacquer occupies the entire top of the watch case and bezel, only bettered by the edges and eight screws which show the rose gold beneath. As always, a beaded crown sits at three with a sapphire cabochon.

The lacquering on the case typically dominates much of the conversation surrounding this piece, but its dial deserves just as much attention. While the continuing of the ivory-coloured lacquer is the headline, the concentric square pattern gradually reducing in size as the eye is led towards the centre of the dial is often underappreciated. In some lights, this pattern is striking; in others, it's subtle, but it's undeniable that it adds hypnotic dimension and flair. Despite this striking departure from convention, hallmarks of Cartier remain, including narrow Roman numerals, sword hands, and a railroad track. Yet again, they have their own personality, with the Roman numerals being applied and the hands being in 18k rose gold instead of heat-blued.

The Movement

Sitting behind the caseback engraved with the handwritten signature of Alberto Santos-Dumont is the manufacture calibre 430 MC powers this Santos Dumont. Based on the Piaget 430P, this ultra-thin manual wound movement offers 43 hours of autonomy, 18 jewels, and a Cartier logo motif finish.

How It Wears

We're not sure there's another watch out there that matches the ivory tones of the lacquer-on-lacquer appearance of this limited edition. Upon its 2022 release, the watch quickly became one of the darling releases of the year, and two years later, the level of charm it exudes hasn't faded at all. The sense of depth and personality achieved by the lacquer in both colour and execution is simply addictive to stare at. Measuring 31.4mm wide with a case length of 43.5mm and a thickness of 7.3mm, the Santos Dumont is a beautiful modern wearing piece. Being rectangular, those measurements translate differently than round sizes, as the watch is similar to a round 36mm - 37mm watch. The 7.3mm thickness is worth highlighting again, as when combined with the watch's ability to hug the wrist due to its curved case and lugs, it makes for an incredibly cohesive and unique unisex package.

Condition

This Cartier Santos Dumont Lacquer is presented in unworn, new condition and is complete as a full set. Dating from 2022, the piece is paired with a smooth Boxed Green Mr WATCHLEY strap, including its original strap and 18k rose gold pin buckle.

Origin

If you know Cartier's story, you'll be acutely aware of the significance of the Santos. In 1904, Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont commissioned his friend, a then 29-year-old Louis Cartier, to make him a watch he could attach to his wrist while pioneering his self-made early aircraft. With it, he didn't just unknowingly produce the first pilot watch but also the first men's wristwatch. And yet, the Santos looked nothing like what we would perceive a pilot watch today. It was small with Roman numerals and Breguet hands; what it was was the genesis of the Cartier wristwatch design language.

The first Santos was produced in 1904, and while Cartier's most iconic model, the Tank, came some 13 years later in 1917, without the Santos, the company would look very different today. In fact, so would the entire wristwatch landscape. The Santos was later rolled out in 1911 and is undeniably one of the most important watches ever produced. However, with attention swiftly shifting to the Tank and the adoption of round-cased wristwatches becoming a convention for the industry, few examples of the Santos were produced before the 1970s.

The Santos came into the modern era, with effect during the latter half of the 20th century, through a revitalisation that saw the model become the status symbol for Hollywood and Wall Street, and it continued to evolve throughout the following decades. In 2019, a fresh take on the Santos arrived, named the Santos Dumont, which looked to extract the elegance of the earliest models. Where the Santos was all large polished bezels, a striking metal bracelet, and a broad wrist presence, the Santos Dumont was a more refined-looking package with a flowing bezel profile, svelte lugs, a lower wrist presence, and a sunburst silver dial. In 2022, Cartier debuted a 250-piece limited edition run of the Santos Dumont in rose gold with lacquer covering the entire top of the case and the dial.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium

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