H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Palladium - Fumé dial

The Watch

One of the great and often underappreciated success stories within the independents is H. Moser & Cie. While the legacy behind its name is mighty, since its return in the 21st century, it has quickly risen the ranks as one of the pre-eminent independent brands, and this Perpetual 1 carries numerous staples of the manufacture.

First sold in 2013, this white metal case Perpetual 1 reference 341.101-009 measures 41mm in width and is rendered in a rarely seen palladium. Part of the platinum group of metals, palladium is a highly durable metal that is lighter than platinum while offering a hardness that delivers excellent scratch resistance. Possessing a bright, silvery white appearance, this palladium case carries a mix of satin and polished surfaces – not easy when working with palladium – with mirrored concave slots scalloped into the midcase working to detract from the case thickness. Striking proportions and a modern wrist presence are just what this Perpetual 1 needs, as despite its complexity, the dial of this piece is beautifully simple. 

It carries a light tobacco hue with a sunburst texture that is further accentuated by a fumé execution – this technique delivers a smoky gradient effect which starts bright at the centre, fading to a shadow around the edges. While by no means proprietary to Moser, the brand certainly re-popularised this dial execution in recent years, almost becoming a hallmark of the brand. On top of this dial is an almost bewilderingly simplistic dial despite it being a perpetual calendar; here's how it works. For the month readout, rather than a dedicated sub-register, a small arrow hand sits at the centre and uses the twelve-hour markers around the dial to point to the corresponding month. At three o'clock, a large date aperture resides, which also hides complexity as it can be adjusted forwards or backwards through the crown. At six is a no-nonsense subsidiary seconds register, while at nine is a power reserve indicator. Similarly, Moser directly integrates the leap year indication on the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback, further cleaning up the dial. At a glance, you'd be forgiven for assuming this is a time and date-only reference thanks to its wide leaf style hands, as the true mastery of this Perpetual 1 lies in Moser's ability to thoroughly integrate the perpetual calendar holistically into the mechanism.

The Movement

The Moser calibre HMC 341 powers this Perpetual 1 and boasts an impressive 168 hours of autonomy from its twin barrels. Adjusted to six positions, this calibre includes numerous features such as an interchangeable Moser escapement, an original double Straumann hairspring® with stabilised Breguet overcoil, and a pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold. The movement features hand finishing throughout, with Geneva striping, polishing, and subtle anglage.

How It Wears

The haute levels of craft behind this H. Moser are instantly apparent once it's on the wrist, as its palladium case and its remarkable dial that is light on conventional perpetual calendar features make it almost incomparable. The proportions, while modern, are neatly balanced and coherent, once more playing into the complete nature of this underrated independent perpetual calendar.

Condition

This rare version of the Perpetual 1 is offered in excellent condition with very light hairline scratches due to the palladium case. Presented as a complete set, the watch comes with its original outer box, inner box, warranty booklet, warranty card, hang tag, cloth, Moser folding buckle in 18k white gold, and original Moser strap.

Origin

The 21st-century reincarnation of H. Moser & Cie has skyrocketed in popularity following its revival in 2002 by the Meylan family with its modernisation of the fumé dial, integrated bracelet Streamliner, and the ownership of humour within the serious business of watchmaking all contributing to its glory. Nevertheless, despite its present-day success, the Moser name is much older than its '02 return suggests, with a heritage stretching back to 1828 and one Heinrich Moser in Saint Petersburg, Russia. Born into a family of watchmakers in Schaffhausen, Moser soon moved to Russia, where the aristocracy harnessed his watchmaking savoir-faire. Once his namesake brand was established, he went on to produce all types of timepieces, from straightforward time-only creations to grande complications. A staggering 500,000 timepieces were believed to have been created during Moser's tenure.

While the H. Moser name was dormant during the 20th century, its revival under the Meylan family has been dominated by writing its own history rather than relying heavily on recreation to shape its future. In 2005, the first of the new age for Moser was revealed, the Perpetual 1, which included elements such as its case form, broad leaf style hands, and unconventionally restrained aesthetic for a traditionally visually complex complication. Since then, H. Moser & Cie has specialised in many different disciplines, such as fumé dials, innovative approaches to complications and their highly revered Streamliner. The brand has developed massively, arguably standing as one of the only manufacturers that has built an entirely new vision for itself without needing to rely on its stellar heritage. 

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. No stock is kept on site.

* Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set *