Franck Muller Chronograph 1750VEM - White enamel dial

Origin

Franck Muller's foray into independence started like many other independent trailblazers from the late 20th century. He graduated from watchmaking school at 15 before working on restoring vintage Patek Philippe pieces for private collectors and the brand's museum. This exposure during the 1980s is largely responsible for his fixation on complications, later becoming a pillar of his eponymous brand. During this time, Muller formed his brand's vision and began working on uniquely extravagant takes on complications. In 1991, Franck Muller launched and, for the following couple of decades, stood at the zenith of innovative and daringly styled true creations. Pieces fused audacious and exciting styling while drawing on Muller's time working on classic 20th-century Patek's in a way that hadn't been seen before. Models such as the Crazy Hours and boldly stylised Arabic numerals of the Cintree Curvex Casablanca epitomise the former, while the Jump Hour 2852 and the Tasti Tondi-esque 36mm bi-compax Chronograph satisfy the latter. This confidence to play with bold, avant-garde concepts was, and still is, the second pillar of Franck Muller, and without it, the third pillar wouldn't have happened: cultural influence.

As the first to truly challenge tradition's long and sacred art, Muller found success from a wide net of clients, simultaneously satisfying the horological connoisseurs and the mainstream. Elton John, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Kanye West, Cristiano Ronaldo, Floyd Mayweather – Franck Muller had gone mainstream, forging the pathway to success for future brands while contributing hugely to the creativity early 21st-century watchmaking enjoyed. But Franck Muller wasn't all show no substance, and the chronograph was the complication closest to Muller's heart.

The Watch

Few manufacturers can rival Franck Muller. The brand stands as one of the earliest independent watchmakers, and from the Casablanca, the Crazy Hours, the Master Banker, or possibly even the early 'Tasti Tondi' Chronographs, there are numerous stylised ways to connect with this innovative brand. Yet for those curating a collection of significant watches, it's the earliest creations by Franck Muller that remain the most revered, and it doesn't get better than this exceedingly rare 1750VEM Chronograph.

With only a handful 1750VEM known to the market and dating from 1993, this piece is believed to have been produced in minimal quantities from 1993 until 1996, with less than 30 examples assembled. Measuring 37.5mm and cased in 18ct yellow gold, the 1750VEM is beautifully mid-sized, with a convex rounded bezel and straightforward pump pushers elaborate the significant scroll-like screw lugs. The gold exterior of this piece marries the two sides of early Franck Muller, hugely expressive yet with bespoke classic touches, with a coin-edge mid-case emulating a design touch often seen on Breguet's. 

Examples of early Franck Muller creations, such as this, reveal that the brand started off producing very classically designed dials, and this 1750VEM may just be one of the pinnacles. Firstly, it carries a crisp white enamel dial, It gives the watch a unique lustre in person, which is complemented by dial details that, the longer you look, the better they get. Firstly, Breguet-style heat-blued hour and minute hands dominate the dial, with a large counter-balanced pomme chronograph hand and two needle-style hands for the bi-compax chronograph registers. The dial carries black, red, and blue colours throughout, with a blue pulsation scale, initially used for measuring heart rates, sitting around the dial's periphery. Large Breguet-style Arabic numerals sit within the railroad track, which is accompanied by red five-minute numerals. At the same time, the same execution can be seen within the sub-registers, except in all black.

The Movement

Inside, the Franck Muller 1750VEM beats the Venus 175, a manual-wind column-wheel chronograph movement that dates back to the 1940s. Known for its smooth pusher action and balanced two-register layout, the Venus 175 offers mechanical charm and historical weight. Beating at 18,000 vph with a 30-minute counter and running seconds, it's a movement prized for its traditional architecture and tactile feel. In Franck Muller's hands, it has been finished with Geneva striping, polished edges and reassembled with care, bringing vintage chronograph craftsmanship into a more modern frame. Notably, the Venus 175 is the same movement that Daniel Roth used in his early 1990s chronograph, underscoring its appeal among high-end independent watchmakers for its classic design and enduring quality.

How It Wears

At 37.5mm with its large bezel and straight, substantial lug design, this 1750VEM remains the right side of commanding on the wrist, allowing the retro charm of its late 20th-century execution to shine. Measuring in a size seldom seen within Franck Muller today, this yellow gold with enamel dial chronograph has charm in abundance only bettered by its dial design, heat-blued hands and overall scarcity.

Condition

This rare Franck Muller 1750VEM is presented in untouched superb condition and is fitted to a Mr Watchley Midnight Blue Grained strap.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium

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