De Bethune DB9 white gold - 7 days power reserve - One of only 9

Origin

Founded in 2002, De Bethune remains a young watch brand compared to many of its haute counterparts. Nevertheless, don't let its young age fool you, as youth doesn't equate to ineptitude. Its two founders, David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet, have dedicated themselves to challenging the status quo of mechanical watchmaking through boundary-pushing mindsets and watchmaking knowledge to produce mechanical watches of the future. Despite Zanetta's passion for collecting art, his forward-thinking vision for De Bethune is shared equally with his fellow founder. Flageollet is an accomplished technical watchmaker representing the fourth generation of the craft with experience at Francois-Paul Journe, Parmigiani, Breguet and Cartier.

'L'Art Horloger au XXI Siecle' (The Art Of Watchmaking In The XXIst Century') is De Bethune's mission statement and is evident when discovering the collections in their range. Their commitment to creating pieces honouring watchmaking tradition while utilising cutting-edge materials and technology runs throughout all their watches. De Bethune carries distinctive particular case designs and incredibly complex and beautifully finished in-house movements that feature their proprietary balance-wheel system.  

First debuted in 2003, the DB9 was a run of only 9 examples in white gold and 10 in rose gold. Encased in an unusual futuristic case featuring ogival lugs, the series features a power reserve indicator visually similar to a moonphase, a silver dial, bold Arabic numerals, and a wrist presence like no other.

In over 20 years of operation, only 3,560 De Bethune watches have ever been created.

The Watch

While De Bethune's production numbers have increased slightly over the past 20 years, earlier references, such as this DB9W, come from a time when output was even lower. As distilled expressions of De Bethune's principles go, the DB9 is potentially one of the leading examples. First released in 2003, with this example dating from 2006, not all is what it seems from its stripped-back and tastefully unassuming appearance.

Measuring 42mm, the 18k white gold case is striking on the wrist, an appearance that is enhanced by the ogival (also known as bullet) lug design. Although that width may sound significant, it's balanced out by a sveltness of just a hair over 9mm and an overall wearability-conscious case form. Initially developed as a chronograph case, the precious white exterior is defined by the short, characterful lugs that balance out the entire appearance. Throughout the entire life of the DB9W, only 9 white gold examples were produced, and only 10 for the DB9R, the rose gold reference.

The dial of the DB9W is where we find plenty of the reference's hidden appeal, with the engine-turned guilloché pattern commanding the centre behind a pair of leaf-style hands. Around this is a complete set of large Arabic numerals finished in a lovely printed blue tone, with the brand signature having moved to six in favour of a moonphase at twelve. Or is it a moonphase? In fact, while its aperture shape and polished disk give off the appearance of a moonphase, this is actually a power reserve indicator.

Due to the manual wind movement and its solid caseback, having an indicator is incredibly helpful when wearing this piece, even more so when we consider the calibre can run for seven days. Once fully wound, the disk will move and sit in the right-hand round aperture, and once depleted, it'll have moved into the left.

The Movement

Manually wound through its faceted crown is the DB7009 calibre. Produced by the company that has since become La Joux Perret, as mentioned previously, this calibre delivers seven days of autonomy and uses 19 jewels to aid in operation.

How It Wears

Looking down at the DB9W on the wrist, it may seem like the ogival lugs are wide and noticeable. However, that lug flare is rather compact and beautifully in line with the widest section of the case. Svelte yet unique and mechanically robust, the DB9W is a technical triumph and an exemplary instance of early De Bethune design language. 

Condition

This ​​De Bethune DB9W dates from 2006 and is presented in excellent condition. The watch is complete as a full set with its box, papers, manual, white gold DB pin buckle and original black alligator De Bethune strap. It is fitted to a Mr Watchley Grained Navy Blue Leather.