Chopard L.U.C. 1860 Platinum - Salmon Guilloché dial - 16/91860/2

The Watch

Sold one year after its inception and being an early numbered edition in the low tens, this LUC 1860 is not as it seems. While its precious metal salmon dial is sharp, and the Calibre 1.96 is noteworthy, the case steals the show due to its platinum rendering. Carrying the reference number 16/91860/2, this salmon on platinum LUC 1860 is an elite—and rare—instant of the unassuming.

Its 36.5mm case hides its heft behind a white metal facade, as a gently defined stepped bezel flows into the blended lugs and case body with remarkable slenderness. While its platinum weight is significant, the case design is juxtaposed perfectly, with a restrained appearance allowing the clean lines and sharpness of the LUC 1860's dial to command the conversation. Precise details are the name of the game for the dial design and execution, resulting in an underdog level of lust when compared to similar dress watches of the era from more legacy watch manufacturers.

Crafted by the same company responsible for Philippe Dufour's Simplicity dials, Metalem expertly delivers a salmon tone with a beautiful handcrafted engine-turned stepped centre, complete with a simplified seconds track before presenting the sharply shaped raised diamond dart hour markers on top of a sunburst texture. Complementing the very characterful markers are large dauphine-style hands sitting above a subsidiary seconds register, with concentric circles and a salmon date aperture at six. Aggressively styled furniture like this really speaks to Chopard's bold confidence to make a statement upon the LUC 1860's release. The matching aperture window is also worth bringing to attention, as this extra nuance is another example of Chopard's attention to detail, a philosophy evident throughout the entire piece. Like the dial they sit on, the hour markers and handset are also solid gold. This traditionally configured dress watch is signed 'Chopard' at twelve and includes 'AUTOMATIC' neatly within its sub-register.

While it remains unconfirmed, it is believed that no more than 20 examples of the LUC 1860 were produced in platinum. Of that number, very few were fitted with salmon dials.

The Movement

The LUC manufacture calibre 1.96 is the beating heart of this Chopard and, much like the watch it powers, has its own celebrated reputation, with Michel Parmigiani designing the movement in conjunction with Chopard over three years. The movement is awash with black polishing from its swan neck regulator to each screw head. The anglage on each bridge, alongside the engraved and signed platinum micro-rotor, shines effortlessly. The bridges feature Côtes de Genève striping and house the Geneva hallmark, identifying it as a Geneva Sealed piece. It's not just a gorgeous movement to view through the display caseback; it's also technologically impressive.

The micro-rotor generates energy stored in the two mainspring barrels stacked on each other to optimise space and produce 70 hours of running autonomy. With a Breguet overcoil hairspring, 32 jewels, COSC certification, and a beat rate of 4 Hz, it's no wonder this precise and efficient movement remains highly regarded. So much so, Philippe Dufour is said to have rated this as one of the top finished movements at the time, only behind his own creations and, famously A. Lange & Söhne.

How It Wears

Proportions can truly make or break a watch, and thanks to its balanced sizing, this Chopard Chopard LUC 16/91860/2 is thankfully made by its size. At 36.5mm wide, it's conservatively mid-sized and is only bettered by its svelteness and the reassuring weight of platinum.

This expression excels on either a male or female wrist, as its desirable salmon dial offers eye-catching appeal with additional depth achieved by its finely decorated guilloché.

Condition

This Chopard LUC 1860 Platinum 16/91860/2 dates from 1998 and is presented today as a complete set. It includes its original warranty, bulletin, platinum pin buckle, solid caseback, wooden box, and manual. The watch is sold with its original strap and is fitted to a Mr Watchley Saffiano taupe strap.

Origin

From jewellery and gems to fine mechanical watchmaking, Chopard exemplifies beauty. Despite being known for its jewellery making, Chopard's mechanical timekeeping legacy stretches back to 1860 when Louis-Ulysse Chopard established the firm at just 24. Their watchmaking savoir-faire ultimately progressed under the complete control of Paul-André, Louis-Ulysse's grandson. However, due to none of his sons showing an interest in taking over the firm, Chopard was acquired by Karl Scheufele III, who worked closely with his family to develop each string to the brand's bow, including the ladies' collections and high-end jewellery headed by Caroline Scheufele. At the same time, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele captained the watch department. Today, both siblings remain at Chopard and share the presidency of this esteemed manufacturer.

During the 1990s, Karl-Friedrich opened up a manufacturer dedicated to developing and producing in-house calibres. Albeit a risky move, this decision ended up being a prosperous one. In 1996, the independent watchmaker announced its first in-house calibre, the Calibre 1.96, and with a reputation for using svelte movements, the micro-rotor-powered 1.96 debuted in its new dress watch, the  LUC 1860 collection, one year later. With traditionally executed details and proportions, the LUC 1860 was fitted with a solid gold dial created by Metalem - the manufacturer who since worked with Philippe Dufour for his Simplicity. While the watch was remarkable, the movement alone had a twin-barrel set-up, Breguet overcoil, swan neck regulator, top-class finishing, and chronometer standard. As efforts from manufacturers to be seen as a watchmaker go, Chopard did an exceptional job with the LUC 1860.

Many different case materials and dial colours were imagined for the watch throughout its life, with the salmon dial becoming the most celebrated—a fact only further proven when

Chopard re-released the watch with a salmon dial and a steel case in 2023. While the original 90s salmon dials were typically fitted in white gold cases, very rare instances of platinum cases can be found. It is believed that no more than 20 pieces were produced in platinum, let alone with a salmon dial.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. No stock is kept on site.

Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set

Reference	16/91860/2
Movement	Automatic
Caliber	Calibre 1.96
Dial	Salmon
Size (Case)	36,5 mm
Material (Case)	Platinum
Bracelet	Mr WATCHLEY Saffiano Taupe
Buckle	Chopard Platinum pin buckle
Condition	Very good
Year	Sold in 1998
Papers	Yes
Box	Yes
Warranty	2 years