Chopard L.U.C. 1860 - 16/1860/2- Salmon Guilloché dial

The Watch

With the 2023 re-edition of the 1860, Chopard has shifted attention towards a reference of significant brand importance. But nothing beats an original.

Its exterior is elegantly restrained, with its soft 36.5mm white gold case being gently defined by its stepped bezel before flowing into the blended lugs and case body with remarkable slenderness. 

The dial on this 16/1860/2 is detailed and precise in its design and execution, yet simultaneously undiluted. Crafted from gold by Metalem, the salmon tones of the base house a beautiful handcrafted engine-turned stepped dial surrounded by a simplified seconds track before presenting the sharply shaped raised arrow hour markers. Complementing these are a large set of dauphine-style hands sitting just above a subsidiary seconds register, with concentric circles and half of the dial matching date aperture at six. The matching salmon aperture window is worth bringing to attention, as this extra nuance is yet another example of Chopard's keen eye. Like the dial they sit on, the hour markers and handset are also solid gold. This traditionally configured dress watch is simply signed 'Chopard' at twelve and includes 'automatic' neatly within its sub-register.

The Movement

The LUC manufacture calibre 1.96 is the beating heart of this Chopard and, much like the watch it powers, has its own celebrated reputation. Michel Parmigiani designed the movement in conjunction with Chopard taking three years to develop. The movement is awash with black polishing from its swan neck regulator to each screw head. The anglage on each bridge, alongside the engraved and signed white gold micro-rotor, glows effortlessly and plays with light and shadow. The bridges feature Côtes de Genève striping and house the Geneva hallmark identifying this as a Geneva Sealed piece. Not only is this a gorgeous movement to view through the display caseback, but it's also technologically impressive. Said micro-rotor generates energy which is stored in its two mainspring barrels that are stacked on top of each other to optimise space and produce 70 hours of running autonomy. With a Breguet overcoil hairspring, 32 jewels, COSC certification, and a beat rate of 4 Hz, it's no wonder this precise and efficient movement remains highly regarded. So much so, Philippe Dufour is said to have rated this as one of the top finished movements at the time, only behind his own creations and, famously A. Lange & Söhne.

How It Wears

Proportions can truly make or break a watch, and thanks to its balanced sizing, the Chopard Chopard LUC 16/1860/2 is thankfully made by its size. At 36.5mm wide, it's conservatively mid-sized and is only bettered by its 8.4mm thickness.

On either a male or female wrist, this specific expression truly excels unlike any other 1860, as its desirable salmon dial doesn’t just offer eye-catching appeal thanks to its tone, but the additional depth achieved by its finely decorated guilloché pattern is simply wonderful. Due to its stepped bezel and minimal case, the watch has a contemporary wrist presence appropriately dominated by its dial. It's also worth highlighting the lugs, which further sensibly aid its presence. It’s difficult to downplay the importance of this significant 1860; for Chopard connoisseurs and experts within the neo-vintage space alike.

Condition

This exclusive Chopard LUC 16/1860/2 with salmon guilloché dial is sold with its original white gold Chopard buckle. The watch is offered in excellent condition.

Origin

From jewellery and gems to fine mechanical watchmaking, Chopard exemplifies beauty. Despite being known for its jewellery making, Chopard's mechanical timekeeping legacy stretches back to 1860 when Louis-Ulysse Chopard established the firm at just 24. Their watchmaking savoir-faire ultimately progressed under the complete control of Paul-André, Louis-Ulysse's grandson. However, due to none of his sons showing an interest in taking over the firm, Chopard was acquired by Karl Scheufele III, who worked closely with his family to develop each string to the brand's bow, including the ladies' collections and high-end jewellery headed by Caroline Scheufele. At the same time, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele captained the watch department. Today, both siblings remain at Chopard and share the presidency of this esteemed manufacturer.

During the 1990s, Karl-Friedrich opened up a manufacturer dedicated to developing and producing in-house calibres. Albeit a risky move, this decision ended up being a prosperous one. In 1996, the independent watchmaker announced its first in-house calibre, the Calibre 1.96, and with a reputation for using svelte movements, the micro-rotor-powered 1.96 debuted in its new dress watch, the  LUC 1860 collection, one year later. With traditionally executed details and proportions, the LUC 1860 was fitted with a solid gold dial created by Metalem - the manufacturer who since worked with Philippe Dufour for his Simplicity. While the watch was remarkable, the movement alone had a twin-barrel set-up, Breguet overcoil, swan neck regulator, top-class finishing, and chronometer standard. As efforts from manufacturers to be seen as a watchmaker go, Chopard did an exceptional job with the LUC 1860.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. No stock is kept on site.

Every watch is delivered in a Mr WATCHLEY Membrane Protection Box for a safe transportation in addition to its original set