Cartier Platinum Pocket Watch - Double Chapter Ring - 1994 reedition

Origin

An opportunity to take a very distinguished step back in time. In terms of elegance, there is little that can exceed the pocket watch. A symbol of a bygone era, it evokes a sense of nostalgia for a chapter in history when time somehow seemed to pass at a rather more gentle and more dignified pace. When there were standards to be met and kept, when quality and attention to detail were second to none and when a smart, three-piece suit was the order of the day.

Cartier has created numerous, aesthetically striking pocket watches since its inception in 1847. Perhaps an object even more befitting of a jeweller's touch than the wristwatch, the pocket watch is descended from a watch worn as a pendant. It was in the 17th century when these watches, worn around the neck on a chain, would reach dimensions allowing for them to be placed in a pocket. This trend would be adopted and remain prominent for men until changes brought about by World War I led to a gradual rise in the popularity of the wristwatch.

The pocket watch's fate was very much intertwined with that of the three-piece suit and with the coup de grâce dealt to this attire by World War II, the pocket watch also fell out of use and fashion. Yet this in turn led to it becoming an even more prized possession, an object for occasions, for life's most significant and important moments, for when time was to be truly savoured. For the most part, this still holds true today and the pocket watch is certainly a very beautiful, refined statement piece - a pleasure to wear and to be seen worn.

The watch

This rare piece of Cartier from 1994 very closely emulates the first Cartier Double Chapter Ring pocket watch created in 1911, a style which was subsequently revisited in the 1920s.

This creation is an elegant example of Cartier platinum perfection. Platinum became a particularly precious metal for Cartier at the turn twentieth century when Louis Cartier's innovative spirit would lead him to be one of the first to start experimenting with the use of platinum in jewellery. This experimentation led to the production of some of the most magnificent Cartier pieces.

The case, bow and chain of this pocket watch are all polished platinum. In gentle contrast to the deeper hue of the platinum case, which measures 45 mm, sits the sharper silver dial. The traditional Cartier railway track minute marker and Roman numerals are printed in black on the outer and most prominent, smooth silver ring of the dial, while a ring of silver guilloché delicately separates the Roman numerals from the second, smaller chapter ring of smooth silver with Arabic numerals. The centre is a signed, burst of beautiful silver guilloché from which the slight, blued breguet hands gracefully extend across the watch. The piece is completed with its triangular bow, crown and signed rolo style of chain, which interchanges between circular and oval links creating a unique texture that gives a nice contrast to the definite circles of the dial.

With a uniform colour palette brought to life with the play on textures and a clean yet intriguing dial with its double chapter rings, this piece is a beautiful lesson in understated Cartier luxury.

Movement

The watch is powered by the ultra-thin, round Le Coultre caliber 140 which contains 8 adjustments and 18 jewels, the same movement used in the first Double Chapter Ring pocket watch from 1911.

How it wears

The most traditional way to wear the pocket watch is of course with a three-piece suit and this very elegant Cartier platinum piece would look truly exquisite against the backdrop of a tailored navy or grey-toned ensemble.

Yet there is nothing to stop the pocket watch being incorporated into a more modern look. One alternative way to wear the pocket watch is to hook it onto a belt loop and place it in a trouser pocket. Picture a mid-weight, black, round-neck wool jumper paired with a black, relaxed, talbot style trouser and then a glint of platinum emerging from the pocket. Contemporary Scandinavian feel chic, with a touch of Cartier.

The pocket watch is certainly a symbol of tradition and nothing can detract from the delight of seeing it worn in its traditional setting. Yet interesting and exciting outcomes can most certainly be reached when an element of tradition is mixed with innovation, particularly with a piece that has such a modern feel.

The set 

This captivating pocket watch comes with its unique Cartier signed platinum chain, as well as original box and papers from 1994.

If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium

Reference	Cartier Pocket Watch
Movement	Manual Wound
Caliber	Calibre 140
Dial	Silver Rosette double chapter ring
Size (Case)	45 mm
Material (Case)	Platinum
Bracelet
Glass	Sapphire
Condition	Very good
Year	1992/1994
Papers	Yes
Box	Yes
Warranty	2 years