Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar - Ref. 43031 - "Automatic & Maltese Cross" dial

The Watch

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 43031 embodies the epitome of a refined dress watch, showcasing unparalleled horological sophistication and elegance. Crafted from 36 mm of lustrous yellow gold, this timepiece distinguishes itself with its immaculate white dial adorned with a "Automatic" inscription and a golden Maltese Cross.

As production progressed through the mid-1990s, the dial of the ref. 43031 underwent several revisions. One notable change was the inclusion of the golden Maltese Cross, positioned above the Vacheron Constantin logo. The logo itself was slightly reduced in size, and the word "Automatic" was now visible just below the 12 o’clock sub-dial. 

Interestingly, enthusiasts found the dial with the golden Maltese Cross to possess more character and visual appeal compared to the version without it.

Highlighted by a moonphase crafted from lapis lazuli, along with indicators for the weekday, month, leap year, and date, the dial creates a mesmerising sense of depth, particularly under the play of light. The white backdrop, complemented by gold hour and minute hands, hosts sub-dial hands in a contrasting dark grey/black hue.

Exemplifying classical aesthetics, the timepiece boasts a polished case with a stepped bezel and straight lugs, echoing the brand’s rich heritage, especially its legendary perpetual calendar pocket watches with a 48-month cycle. Despite its nod to tradition, the watch's slim profile, measuring under 8 mm, embraces contemporary design sensibilities, ensuring a comfortable wearing experience.

The Movement

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 43031 is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 1120, featuring an oscillating weight crafted from 21K gold. The rotor, spanning the full diameter, is elegantly decorated with Geneva stripes.

Measuring a mere 2.45 mm in thickness, this self-winding movement, comprising 36 jewels, stands among the slimmest in the realm of haute horlogerie. Its significance in the annals of fine watchmaking traces back to the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 movement, renowned for its ultra-thin construction and developed with collaborative efforts from Audemars Piguet, subsequently embraced by Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe.

Emblazoned with the Seal of Geneva, this timepiece bears testimony to an esteemed standard of quality, further cementing its status as a symbol of horological excellence.

How it wears

With a modest width of 36mm, this Vacheron Constantin timepiece exudes a charming compactness on the wrist. The seamless fusion of its case and dial, coupled with its straight lug configuration, accentuates every desirable aspect. When worn, it boasts remarkable slimness, enhancing its luxurious appeal. Moreover, its case width ensures comfortable wear for a diverse range of wrist sizes, making this piece of art accessible to many.

Condition & Set

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 43031 is presented in excellent condition, boasting flawless mechanical performance. Included with the timepiece are its original yellow gold Vacheron Constantin pin buckle and a brand new VC alligator strap.

Origin

One of the oldest players on the pitch, Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 in Geneva by Jean-Marc Vacheron, who was only in his early twenties at the time. Vacheron, known to be a good friend of philosophers Jean-Jacques Rousseau and Voltaire – sharing an interest in ideas centered around the intellectual movement of the time, reflected both in science and watchmaking – passed his watchmaking spirit and horological complications archive on towards his son and grandson Jacques-Barthélemy, who started his collaboration with François Constantin in 1819. 

It remarked the continuation of a watchmaking journey infused by enlightenment and a beginning of a new chapter of the brand, carrying forth its new name and innovative ethos until today.

The design at hand breathes horological history as perpetual calendars are considered amongst the most iconic complications. Its story unfolds at the beginning of the 20^th century in Geneva, where the first model was manufactured by Patek Philippe. Though other Swiss brands explored the complication, perpetual calendars were only crafted by master watchmakers.

Vacheron Constantin started their endeavors in perpetual calendar wristwatches during the war, in 1942 with Ref. 4240. Its production, followed by evolutional designs, lasted only a few decades. The overall production – merely among the Holy Trinity of watchmaking – ceased during the quartz crisis, but the rare pieces enlivened a renaissance in the eighties.

The perpetual calendar soon became the epitome of heritage-based fine watchmaking, standing the mechanical test of time. It is believed that the ultra-thin perpetual calendar model at hand, supposedly developed by Vacheron Constantin in 1983, played a weighty role in surmounting the horological crisis for the historic Swiss brand.

The Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 43031 became the archetypal perpetual calendar of Vacheron Constantin, in production in different variations only until 2002.

Reference	43031
Movement	Automatic
Caliber	Calibre 1120
Dial	White - Automatic & Maltese cross dial
Size (Case)	36 mm
Material (Case)	Yellow gold
Bracelet	Custom Mr WATCHLEY strap
Buckle	Yellow gold VC pin buckle
Condition	Excellent
Year	90's
Papers	-
Box	-
Warranty	2 years