Andersen Genève Minute Repeater - 1995 - Unique piece - JHP case
Origin
Andersen Genève remains one of a few early independent watchmakers that maintains a sense of magic with its watches, starting with its first creation and continuing to its latest. The secret behind this is right in front of us: Svend Andersen. Born in 1942 in Denmark, before launching his eponymous manufacture in the 1980s, Svend had worked in Patek Philippe's Atelier des Grandes Complications starting in 1969. During the same year at the "Montres et Bijoux" Show, he debuted something he had been working on in his spare time, 'The Bottle Clock'. This saw Svend place a working clock within a bottle despite the bottle's opening only being 18mm in width. Taking five months to complete, this achievement earned him the moniker of 'Watchmaker of the Impossible' and introduced Andersen's watchmaking whimsicality to the world. After spending nine years at Patek Philippe, Svend left to found his workshop where he began manufacturing watch cases for Italian collectors. Soon after, the same collectors began requesting Svend to build pièce unique watches – Andersen Genève was born.
This bespoke approach to manufacturing has become a hallmark of Andersen creations, and while today watches are serially produced, the numbers of each reference remain incredibly low. Svend's experience at Patek Philippe has been evident since day one, with the brand developing many complications such as minute repeaters, world timers, and all types of calendars, including perpetual, annual, jump hours, and the world's first Hebrew and secular calendar. Since its inception over 40 years ago, Andersen Genève has produced less than 1,300 timepieces, which works out to an average of 32 watches a year.
In 1985, Svend, alongside Vincent Calabrese, established a community for independent watchmakers. Known as the AHCI, its founding was in the name of preserving tradition where it deemed those working independently as the 'guardians of these traditions' in the face of the growing big brands and conglomerates. The list of members of the AHCI over the years includes but is not limited to F.P. Journe, Kari Voutilainen, George Daniels, Raúl Pagès, Vianney Halter Philippe Dufour, Felix Baumgartner, and Andreas Strehler. Without the AHCI, the landscape for independent watchmakers would be unrecognisable, and in 2023, Svend and Calabrese were recognised with the GPHG Special Jury Prize for its founding.
The Watch
There are three pillars critical to understand when analysing the magic of Andersen Genève's creations. Firstly is their ability to realise the impossible, a trait earned with the 'Bottle Clock' in 1969. The second is the mastery of complications – a skill honed by Svend after nearly a decade at Patek Philippe working on their complications. Finally is the brand's commitment to the craft through the regular yet select development of pièce uniques. Having only produced less than 100 pièce uniques in 40 years, these extraordinary pieces seldom come to market, except today.
Dating from 1995, this remarkable, unique, minute repeater is rendered in 18k rose gold with limitless charming case nuance. While the bezel isn't stepped, its rounded form appears to be at a glance thanks to two concentric circles on both sides of the bezel edge. Emerging from the 38mm wide case with utter elegance is a set of lovely straight lugs reminiscent of the Patek Philippe 3448 and the more modern Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II. Sitting on the left of the svelte case is the minute repeating slide, a design Svend invented in 1987, with the crown opposite to set and manually wind the watch. The case found on this minute repeater is second to none, and the reason why can be answered by simply listing the three letters found between the lugs on the case: JHP
Possibly the greatest watch case maker ever, Jean-Pierre Hagmann’s cases are highly regarded due to their elite levels of technical proficiency in design and production. Some of his most renowned cases are the minute repeaters he made for Patek Philippe, making this instance of a Hagmann all the more special.
While Andersen Genève dials are known today for their incredible unique guilloché, blue gold, enamel decoration, and stones, the dial seen on this mid-90s example is undistilled and truly timeless. Silvered with a golden-coloured dot minute track that turns to black every five minutes, this classically formed dial is complete with compact black-printed Roman numerals and a subsidiary seconds register at six. An ever-endearing set of blued spade hands read the hours and minutes and a needle-style blued hand tracks the seconds.
Simply signed 'ANDERSEN GENÈVE', this unique minute repeating timepiece epitomises timelessness and delivers on Svend's original goal of AHCI to preserve tradition.
The Movement
You might assume by now that this Andersen is already outstanding enough, but things get better when turning the watch over, and the view reveals a reworked vintage Louise Élysée Piguet, numbered 0. Mindblowing architecture greets the eye with a golden, frosted appearance throughout the multi-layered and nuanced bridges. Contrasting this very traditional finishing is not only anglage but also plenty of black polishing on the gears, screws, and repeating gongs. It’s a watch with many highlights, but the movement could easily top the list.
How It Wears
Regardless of its unassuming design execution, the wrist presence of this Andersen is striking. The length and form of the long tapering lugs are equal parts elegant as they are commanding. Despite the variety in his case design, Hagmann’s cases are always special things on the wrist, enchanced further when it's a minute repeater. While the dial design favours versatility, this Andersen is a superlative piece best suited for those special occasions.
Condition
This 1995 Andersen Genève Minute Repeater is in fantastic condition with only light hairline scratches visible. The original 'A' Andersen pin buckle in rose gold is also included with the sale, along with service papers detailing the work completed by Andersen in 2022 and a Mr Watchley Grained Midnight Blue strap.
If you desire to take a closer look at this precious timepiece, don't hesitate to contact us and make an appointment. We are based in Ghent, Belgium.
No stock kept on site
| Reference | Andersen Genève |
|---|---|
| Movement | Manual |
| Caliber | Louise Élysée Piguet, numbered 0 |
| Dial | Silver |
| Size (Case) | 38mm |
| Material (Case) | Rose gold |
| Bracelet | Mr WATCHLEY Grained Midnight blue |
| Buckle | Rose gold Andersen Genève |
| Condition | Very good |
| Year | 1995 |
| Papers | AG Service papers from 2023 |
| Box | - |
| Warranty | 2 years |